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They were certainly making them in the early 70s, I'd reckon no later than 73.

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13Amp socket is fine. It looks as though it's got a metal faceplate so as long as that's earthed OK (along with the earth receptacle) then you're OK.

My memory is that I used to hover over my moniker to get a drop-down which included Logout, now I have to click on the moniker. I'm using a Windows PC. When replying, clicking on the Preview button doesn't seem to do anything and the "Watch Thread" options aren't clear (do they still exist?).

Apparently it was fetus . I'm pretty certain R4s 6 o'clock news yesterday claimed that was the UK spelling, D'oh.

Looking at the only twin brown I've got (bought from TLC) both browns are the same (to this DIYers eyes) and are white cored with the brown on the outside only. Edit: Supplier corrected.

I'm not clear what you're trying to tell us, as that's a repeat of part of the initial post. Have you tried Sunray's suggestion?

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Yes, an Intermediate switch is a special type. Looking at Sunray's diagram, to the right of "LANDING" the switch has 4 terminals which either connect black to blue and upper red to lower red OR black to lower red and upper red to blue. An Intermediate switch can be used as a 2-way or even a 1-way.

Previously: I reckon Bernard's recommending Switched, as with Unswitched you'd only be able to remove the fuse which leaves the Neutral connected.

In your picture it's switched off so there's a good chance it's not connected to anything (to anything that's in use?). With the power switched off you could try opening it up and seeing if there's any input and output cables and the direction they come from, but it's scarcely worth it if...

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There used to be (still is?) a computer company by the name of Wang, they had some lapel buttons made up saying "Wang Cares".

I'd have expected the the 4 normal switches to be daisy chained together, so that 3 (not the last in the chain) would have 2 wires in the COM terminal and 2 wires in the MAKE terminal, is the picture "other switch.jpg" of the switch which is furthest from the Timer switch? Obviously I'd be very...

Living down to my moniker and proving I can be a right pedant: I agree the earth wires could be slightly better positioned but as the blue wire goes round the plastic "hook" in the rose, I believe it's more likely to push on them.

Sometimes people on here recommend this sort of thing: https://uk.farnell.com/ampohm-wound-products/fe-sp-cr28-470-100/cap-sup-x2-0-47uf-250vac-radial/dp/1438452?MER=sy-me-pd-mi-alte to prevent the glow, but I've no personal experience of these.

I'd be tempted to try to turn that valve off and if it won't turn then try to turn it on and, if it moves, see if you hear water going into the tank. At end turn valve back to where it was. If you can turn it off then there's probably a float valve in the tank. If it's seized up then...

The usual advice on here is that it's perfectly alright to add a socket onto a (pedantically) ring final as long as you are sure it IS a ring final and that the circuit is protected by an RCD (all new sockets must be RCD protected). edit: EFLI beat me to it.

But TTC is pretty accurate when he says: The "safe zones" show where you must be careful 'cos they might contain electric cables and, as others have said, you show where these zones are by having a switch or socket or one of a few other things in the wall. Living down to my moniker, arguably...

It's my, possibly faulty, memory that the GPO had their ANN (All Numbers Now) advertising campaign in the early 60s, so that label is unlikely to be less than 50 years old.