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I'm sure the best advice is to replace it with an LED light, but if you want to look at possibilities then this link: https://www.lampshoponline.com/control-gear/hf-ballasts-non-dimmable/tridonic-pc-ballasts/tridonic-pc-basic.html shows the sort of thing you'd need. You'd need to be careful to...

I have got such a 2D lamp working again with some new electronics. This link: https://www.lampshoponline.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=tridonic+ballast+basic+2d brings up the sort of thing I bought. Obviously do be careful that you look at ones which are suitable for the power of your lamp.

I'd be tempted to use a hacksaw, being careful to do it as close to right angles as possible. Then, assuming you want to end up with a gap between the 2 ends and that there's now some play in the pipe, use something like this (link)...

Do you intend reusing the cables which currently carry 12v ?

200mm is the depth, not the width. Your Homebase link says that those rolls are available so that they can be split into 380mm widths.

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It's definitely a case of Donald Rumsfeld's "unknown unknowns". At the double risk of (a) getting into a philosophical argument and (b) mansplaining. John is absolutely correct in implying that the 2 sockets (in a double socket) share their power supply. BUT, we have what we call "ring finals"...

Before you start, it's probably best to check with your electrician (who has to sign it off as being done properly) that (s)he's happy for you to do the parts that you want to do, e.g. the running in of the cable.

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Just to live down to my moniker: following on from: My guess is that Chivers was trying to check the 63A RCD would be correct.

I believe this might be to avoid the "borrowed neutral" problem. If you've got 2-way switching and the upstairs lights are on a different RCD to the downstairs lights, then it's possible for a light to take it's power from the upstairs circuit but to have it's neutral wire on the downstairs...

Love the typo.

If I've understood what people have been saying: so a single 10mm2 (which you run everything off) or 2 by 6mm2. I assume you'd split the sockets between these 2 cables.

Just a suggestion, could you use a spacer such as: https://cpc.farnell.com/bg/817/pattress-box-1g-10mm-spacer/dp/PL08924 It's supplying 10mm when you're after 5 (but it might be all we can find). I'm sure other suppliers are available.

It might be worthwhile checking this website: https://www.fixthebog.uk/ and sending them photos.

If you use a blanking cover then that might not indicate a safe zone, whether adding one of these, link: https://www.electrium.co.uk/products/crabtree/catalog?main=AAG&man=0170&sub=AAB&pro=AAB&level=4 is sufficient to show a safe zone, I leave to others to decide.

I do believe your physics is a bit rusty. If you add heat to some water at 100C and turn it into steam then you've added a certain amount of heat. If you turn some water vapour at, say, 50C into liquid water (still at 50C) and (hey presto) you find you've got the same amount of water as you...

I'm no spark so can't comment on your idea, but normally people say that new CUs need notifying to your Local Authority's Building Control and it's nearly always cheaper to get it installed by a professional who can self-notify (via his trade body) than to pay the BC's fees.

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If you're going to connect your new switch to (the position of) the existing one by burying a cable then, I believe, you'll need to create a safe zone connecting them. People here reckon that a blanking plate doesn't do this. I leave it to others to say whether one of these (uses minimal...