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I recently replaced the manky fluorescent tubes in my kitchen with LED tape lights glued to the bottom of the cupboard along the front edge behind the recess. The quality of the light is actually really good. The only issue was fixing them - the 3M tape they came with was rubbish and they...

We had a similar problem behind a bookcase. We've insulated the wall now, but for a while I used one of these heaters: https://www.cupboard-heaters.co.uk/ and it did the trick.

We recently had a Securoglide roller fitted - very happy with it. Looked at the Hormann ones too - the look of those was probably a better match for our house (the sectioned ones). In the end the Securoglide was the only option because it rolls up onto a roll. The Hormann rolled up and over...

LOL! If I did that for every shoddy workman I've had there would be no need for dog waste bins in public spaces

Hi all, Bit of an odd one this one. I had external insulation applied earlier this year. This meant that my windows needed over-sills. Trouble is, the windows drain onto the sill via concealed drainage channels and the oversills block the drainage channel. I have had my window company...

Check and Check. Already got half the house wired up with Lightwaverf... not keen on introducing another system to confuse the Mrs!! Anyways... maybe I'll just buy a metre of each and see what looks best. Don't need to dim the units, just don't want to have to wear sunnys when chopping me...

Yeah that option crossed my mind. Not overly keen on a dimmable one if not necessary because: 1) Need to install a dimmer switch - at the moment they are powered off an FCU. Makes it more complicated.. can you get an FCU dimmer? 2) Don't like the buzzing sound made by dimmer switches. I'm...

Hi folks, I have some old deteriorating flourescent tubes under my kitchen cabinets at the moment that light the work surface. Thinking of replacing them with LED tape. Does anyone have any experience about which size and density (e.g. 3528 vs 5050, 30 LED/m 60LED/m) would work best in...

Thanks Andrew for that tip. Looks like you joined especially to help me out :) What kind of contractor should I contact to figure out what would be possible? Most drainage companies seem bent towards jetting and nothing else. Ta

The ground slopes from left to right as you look at the front of the house. The existing manhole on the drive is on the left of the house (higher ground). The proposed WC would be on the first floor of the right hand side of the house, but the SVP would enter the ground on the RHS, which is much...

Deluks, you are right of course. Anyway..... I was interested if anyone had rough idea of cost so I could make an informed decision, instead of just assuming it would be too expensive and therefore opting for a macerator.

Nothing. Seriously. What's wrong with wanting a job done properly? A macerator is a bad solution in my opinion. Just google 'saniflo problems'. Not having to deal with all that cr*p (pun intended!) is worth seeking a better (albeit more expensive) solution.

Thanks for the responses. The existing WC connects to a manhole on our drive, but our house is on a slope so the drive is quite a bit higher than the other side of the house where the new proposed connection will need. So I meant that there is not enough fall for it to connect to the manhole...

Hi all, We're considering adding an en-suite but there is no drainage on this side of the house. Our house is on a slope and the existing main sewer connection is on the high part of the slope, so I think it's too high to run a drain from the proposed location (there wouldn't be enough fall)...

Thanks Deluks... v. useful info. Love this forum.

Yeah, I did wonder about the possibility of that. Wasn't sure if the metpost would be up to the job of holding a gate post straight for many years. Since a gate is only supported at one side and not both like a fence panel, thought the wooden post may rock loose pretty quickly. Anybody have...

It's just a standard garden gate for a person to walk through. Probably about 80cm wide, something like that. PITA as it means I'm gonna have to move the post on which it was hinged as well :) Thanks all anyways.

The water main stopcock on the drive is in-line with it. I think what it could be is overspill from when the foundations were poured. Just the top of the trench if you know what I mean. I might just play it safe and move the whole gate 20cm further away from the wall and avoid any...

I have had another look today and also smashed a bit off with a lump hammer. Its concrete.... And it seems to be connected to the wall. Underneath its just soil. Anybody have any opinions on whether I can break this out? Don't wanna go disturbing anything to do with the foundations. Ta

I have just had my place (in UK) externally insulated. I came across these guys while considering similar issues... http://www.retrofitsatellites.co.uk/ (No affiliation)