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Not if you retain an air gap as its purpose is to prevent condensation. Current recommendations are a 50mm clear air gap. You will need to ensure that you can maintain full cross ventilation. It may be easier to improve insulation of the roof by installing insulated plasterboard to the ceiling.

I only said that some councils may accept pictures. I've not done it myself, as I'd always be working with drawings anyway. But I have heard of it being done. But, the purpose of drawings is simply to help illustrate the proposal described in the application form. If you can accurately...

Not really - the OP sounds as though he simply wants to change his existing loft space into a more open, habitable space as opposed to extend the loft space or add a dormer... Work to the inside of your property does not fall under planning laws, as long as its not a listed building of course.

Whether you apply for planning or not you can ask anyone to carry out the works. Of course, you'd want someone competent... like a brickie! :wink: hehe. If you want to submit the application yourself then you can either do this online through the Planning Portal or you can download the...

The rear extension, assuming it met with the various other permitted development restrictions could indeed fall under your permitted development (so not need planning permission). The side extension to fill in, as already mentioned would not meet permitted development rules as in this...

Agreed I just want to clarify, if a designer takes said drawings, and scales from them to produce their own plans then this is would be all but impossible to control. After all, copying an existing plan, should in theory be exactly the same result as if you were to go and do your own survey...

Shooting from the hip a bit, but I'm pretty certain that the requirement for fire escape roof light windows has now been ommitted!?

The cill of the window should be 800mm above the floor. An alternative would be to create a hall on teh ground floor to separate the bottom of the stairs > door area from the rooms on the ground floor. How many floors does your house have?

One thing should be made absolutely clear - it is a common misconception that when you pay an architect to design something that you gain ownership of the drawings. This is false. A client pays for design services, the architect uses drawings to illustrate those design services. Also, DO NOT...

Agreed, and its often difficult to try to explain to people that what they think they can do is simply not true. Others insist on holding out on projects in the hope the rules are changed! To the OP, go to the website of your local council and search their planning applications page. If you...

Maybe you can use a back block to patch the plasterboard behind the tiles before fixing new tiles over the hole? similar to how you'd go about patching a hole in a plasterboard wall... This may be easier if you can make a little more room by removing a few of those mosaic strips.

mind you, it's probably just as hazardous to your health... :wink: Okay, I'm pretty certain now, that you're just trying to wind people up now! lol.

No, I'd advocate the use of energy efficient machinery, fuels and processes! Which is exactly the point I was making in the begining! being energy efficient does not mean that we need to devolve our technologuies, it means we EVOLVE them. If our technology, and our buildings, become more...

I agree with Jeds the only way to make significant head height changes is by setting the floor joists lower. You won't be able to get 100mm out of adapting the roof construction. With the commercial roofs you need to be aware that they usually require you to include a further false ceiling...

Have you had a DPC specialist in to check things? Also, that downpipe goes into the ground... where does it go from there? I mean, is it connected to a waste system or does it literally spew out into the ground?

Raising the timber is less about allowing air flow and more about trying to keep the timbers off the floor (and thus dry). You have to be wary raising the base too high though, because this may encourage animals to crawl under there... such as foxes and cats (and in some areas, rats) etc...

If you don't like the spindles, have you considered boxing them in?

I recently "glued" a 1000mm x 1000mm 6mm thick mirror to my bathroom wall. I used mirror adhesive... you can get stuff from places like Screwfix (the irony) for about £7 for a tube (you'll need a gun applicator as well of course). Make sure you get "mirror adhesive", apparently regular "no...

Hold on a second, are you renting this from a landlord and is there a contract agreement in place!? You should find that it is his duty to rectify building issues... More than that though, if you carry out unauthorised works to his building then he could find YOU in breach of the agreement...