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Get a 4x4 fence post to make legs, notch the the tops so the weight is directly on top of it. Sit them on a square of dpc or polythene, with a broken bit of slate, floor tile or paving slab underneath. Also fix a continuous timber to the underside so that they are joined to each other. The...

Yes basically, but your internal dpc must meet the damp proof membrane for the floor, which you haven't mentioned. If your mates a bricky, he should know!

Never seen it myself, but asbestos bound by cement is considered to be the safest of all the types that are out there.

If the roof's been leaking then it will be damp, this reduces the chance of any fibres flying about. Not worth worrying about after the fact. Thinking that some limited exposure to asbestos is definitely going to cause cancer is like saying I once briefly smoked, so I'll definitely get lung...

Has anyone ever replaced these springs? My 18v Ryobi grinder had lost power and was sparking. I opened it up, inside revealed blackening on the brush connecting cable, and the coiled spring that holds the brush down was weak, and also blackened. The other side was ok. I'm guessing something...

He's alright, he's got the Kings ear.

To be fair, flood prevention is quite a good idea. Heat pumps don't work very efficiently under 4ft of water.

You won't get any moisture trapped behind if you do it right. Dab or foam the perimeter of the board, (including around socket outlets, as per Nosey's picture. Also make sure the roof and gutter above the wall and external drainage are all in good order. Also ensure that the room has adequate...

Is it a quick release toilet seat?

I seem to remember reading somewhere, it might have been a SPAB document, that says too much insulation on an older building can be a negative thing, if not enough heat can escape to stop the outside of the building from freezing, leading to exacerbated spalling on brickwork and render. If...

You can also use foam to fix the boards on, with a few screws as well. Or screw timber battens on, which allow you to get everything level and plumb upfront. If you are referring to the Charlie DIYte video, I think he was referring to standard uninsulated plasterboard dabbed onto his wall...

You can buy the top sloping rail of the panel separately, get one of these and use it as a guide. They are usually 183cm. Trimming a panel is no big deal. The treatment goes well into the timber, and you can always buy a paint on preservative for cut sections. Are you not using a gravel...

Tidy. Although your pipework is a lot more compact than the OP's. Prosecco and vaseline on the same shelf? You must throw some legendary parties!

You don't need a panel on the right hand side. You can support the left panel with screwed in floor and ceiling battens. On the wall, because of the proximity of the switch and potential cable runs, I'd glue a batten to the wall. You can do same on other side just to support an infill panel...

Oh the poor little darlings, imagine them having to obey the Geneva convention. It must be awful for them. Let's just give them medals and pat them on the head for being brave little soldiers.

On The Buses, black and white episode. New member of staff, an indian lady running the canteen. How did they get away with it!

Every organisation has it's bad apples, if some are resigning, maybe they are the ones that need looking into?

You don't need a strip of concrete, just a shovel full at each end. Use as little water as possible so it's stiff, and support it underneath with something temporary until it's set. To avoid mixing concrete, put a brick at each end, dig out to adjust ground height to suit. A few bits of old...

That would be reasonable if the soldiers that actually do commit atrocities get banged up too. Far too much gets swept under the carpet.

Is a design feature, to milk the lazy, the too busy, the stressed, the uninformed. Basically, the poor and stupid!