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Years ago the method for toothing was to leave the joints empty till the end of the job to allow for any settlement, and have the new gauge 1/16 higher.

It can be toothed, but if the existing bricks are Imperial and the new are metric, the bed joints will probably be quite big.

Without any lateral restraint the ends are likely to go out of plumb. You're also more likely to get a movement crack at the join.

Most people use wall starters nowadays. There's a number of advantages, including not being restricted to following the same brick gauge as the house. E.g. The house might have really large or small joints, or different sized bricks.

For a sample of the original sand stick a piece of the mortar you've cut out into some brick acid and you'll be left with a sample of the original sand.

I'd prep it like Ivor said and give it a thin parge with a sand/cement/SBR mix.

Get the drainage details at the back of the wall right.

A lot of people don't realize that the details at DPC level are designed for wheelchair access on new builds.

The fixings have to be stainless as well. When done properly it lasts for a long time, although plastic and fibre glass are becoming more popular. A garden wall, especially a painted one like that is not ideal for render, but if it is going to be done stucco lathing is better than direct to the...

They normally use stainless steel in those situations, although some people prefer plastic.

You best chance for render is metal laths mechanically fixed to the masonry. If you dig out the back for drainage, it's worth putting a geotextile membrane around the fill to stop any clay getting into it. LBC flettons are baked at a low temperature, so although it made them a cheaper brick, it...

My wife insisted I cut the bricks for him. Being soft hearted I tend to spoil the grand kids so I cut them for him. She wanted the basket weave panel, was really she should have made the cuts, but used the excuse that she's too tired after doing all the housework, ironing and cooking etc.

Hard to say if it's safe. A properly constructed suspended concrete floor will be sitting on load bearing walls at the perimeter. DIY could mean it's just got some mesh thrown into the middle.

Holly leaves don't as well.

My 15 year old grandson did ours.

You can get debris intercecpor gullies for downpipes.

That must have been years ago in your apprenticeship days.;)

The key with AAC blocks is not to use green or wet ones, and don't use a strong mortar.

Have a look at the recommended heights for garden walls. For 100mm block even in zone 1, yours is well over that maximum.

Those 30's semis often had an arch over the front door, which occasionally failed if the abutment was too short.