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You mean the rounded wooden beading that makes it look neat and hides the gaps?

I'll just adjust the skirting as advised but I have already put beading on some of it that I haven't photographed. And yes I glued it to the skirting and not the floor.

It states on the box Well I'm not on the floor looking sideways at it so you don't see it. The box states it's for Kitchens and living rooms. The fitter did just what you said and took some off the end plank when it warped last time. So on that basis why is it going again ? The other end of the...

Thanks all. I shall monitor it and perhaps adjust the skirting if it gets worse. So far can live with it.

)} A few days or so but not for that reason as the kitchen had to be finished first.

It's solid wood. I did the beading but don't remember much of a gap. Besides, he came back and adjusted last time and it evened out agan flat. Just can't understand why it it happening again. It can't endlessly keep expanding. At the other end it has caused the skirting board to ping away at the...

Well, I'm gutted because we only has this 100% hardwood Woodpecker floor laid in the kitchen (stated on the box for kitchens and living rooms) by our fitter in early Summer and already it has warped twice!. There is always a little movement here and there but this end got so bad a few weeks...

Yes it's an outside wall chimney breast. The dehumidifier does have a threshold control which is pretty good.

Well even after running the stove for a month, the chimney breast feeling warmish and dry it feels especially damp this morning. The dehumidifier showed 90% when I just turned it on. Its so depressing after all the time, effort and money thrown at this problem (new stove, chimney swept...

No cracks et. I just think the pipe wasn't perhaps flush with the rubber washer. It all works now.

Update - Disaster - After fitting it all back together exactly as before, water cascades from the whole of bottom of the shower like a waterfall. I the refitted making sure everything was extra tight and it works. No idea why it leaked so badly after the first attempt

Managed to take out the pipe to fit a new seal. I must say the old one doesn't look to have been breached.

Ok, we have the log burner installed with metal liner, a more durable high grade. All chimney pots are now capped which were previously open (one even had no pot for years with gaping hole until replaced a few years ago) I Wass told by the guy fitting the flue on his cherry picker that he has...

I think patch it now for getting through Autumn Winter and in Spring take glass out and start again with sealant.

Good idea. Thanks.

Just taken one of the ledges off and it's pretty wet. The nails are rusty so going to pull them out, treat with Ronseal wet wood rot, paint and replace ledge a bit lower. The photo with the ledge in my hand is the repair I made only this Summer with Ronseal and wood filler. It clearly isn't...

Taking the putty out would be a monumental task and sealing the bottom difficult also. I have used sealent in the past and water still got in. I could paint the putty with the same Dulux weathwrseal to fill the gaps.

I can assure you there is absolutely no water running down from the glass anywhere inside. No traces as completely dry but it seeps in as you can see. Even outside I can't see any evidence and it's only this one area out of 4 panes. So frustrating. Here is a better shot of the exterior taken 5...

Thanks John but I can't see any evidence of it running down from anywhere. When I had perspex just sitting on the wood with tacks holding it on (no sealant) I had no issues with capillary action. It seems installing glass and putty has caused so many problems.

I absolutely can't fathom how this water is getting into my potting shed. The outside is sound with no visible way water can get in. I have felt underneath the bench and can't feel any water of moisture. I know the putty in the glass is a bit poor (my bad) BUT from the inside there are no signs...