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I've just got home from work and after my tea will post some pictures to illustrate my situation. But to start with - yes, the electrician wasn't willing to re-connect the garage. I was quoted for (and probably paid for) a 10-way CU, but it appears there was only space for a 8-way...

My house was rewired last summer and the CU replaced. It's in a small corner cupboard in the hall and cannot be replaced with anything larger. After everything else has been hooked up, there is no space left (empty way) to supply the garage. The electrician has left the cable to the garage...

Pipe on left (actually the middle if you count toilet waste on far left) is the waste for a small, hand-basin. One of the things I was considering was the potential for a blockage to cause the basin to empty up into the boiler. But I guess the relative heights would mean that's unlikely? The...

I've added a picture to the OP. The pipe it is connected to doesn't directly take rain water. However, it does ultimately tee into the underground drain that does. I did consider an airbreak, as you describe, but in it's current configuration it would allow foul air from the sewer to escape.

Edited OP to add more information. He said it was required because if there was a blockage, sewage from the toilet or basin could come up the pipe and into the boiler.

The condensate pipe for my boiler has been connected to an outside drain pipe shared with a toilet and hand-basin. (I'll dig out a picture.) A while ago an NPower engineer (fixing another problem) mentioned there should be a non-return valve installed. My dad popped into Plumb Centre this...

If I Google for a 22x10x22 tee, all the results seem to be JG pushfit. Can you get non-pushfit, copper in that combination? What do you know! I did another search immediately after posting and dug up these. :oops: Quite a difference in £ between 22x22x15 and 22x22x10!

Would there be any issues regarding balancing? What with the first rad (kitchen and very close to boiler) being in 15mm and the following all being 10mm? Will it 'steal' more of the hot water?

I want to add a (smallish) radiator to the downstairs circuit, in the kitchen. The downstairs radiators, of which there are currently 3, are all fed by 10mm copper pipe. The 22m flow and return come from the boiler, under the kitchen floor (actually passing underneath where I wish to place...

NPower came out this morning and this engineer agreed it wasn't an issue with the PRV. (I'd placed a bag over the pipe and it was empty.) He's concluded it's the heat exchanger and it's being replaced tomorrow. It finally looks like it's going to be fixed.

Agreed. And believe me, I will. They're booked in for Wednesday morning. It's just annoying they have to go through all these little steps before I get a working boiler, each taking days at a time. Meanwhile, I'm without a reliable source of hot water or heating. I've got three kids, 7, 5 & 2...

Sorry, I've been writing so much about it in other threads, I forgot to mention it in this one. I assumed everybody already knew. ;) Vokera Compact 25

I've been having problems with my boiler - randomly losing pressure. Ultimately, the boiler stopped working. I have a service contract with NPower, so finally called them out. NPower came and got it working again, but said the issue with losing pressure needed further investigation. He...

I want to install an IP rated, double socket on an outside wall for some Christmas lights. My plan: I have a double socket, downstairs in a bay. I was going to cut a channel in the wall and take it around the corner (2.5mm T&E) and install a 13A (neon) SFCU (inside of) an outside wall...

Good question. I'll admit to being a little worried that they will come out and see the work going on in the house - radiators removed, replaced, boiler moved, decorating, etc and say any faults aren't covered. The last time I called them they asked if I'd been doing any decorating. I got the...

The following may be unrelated, but I'd like to explain what's happened over the last couple of days and where I am at the moment. I've still been losing pressure. I top up the boiler to ~1.2 bar last thing at night and by the morning it's dropped to zero. I went around the house again...

Would something like this suffice? Or do you have any other recommendations?

I'm writing a shopping list for the installation of one of these LED floodlights. Tech. Spec. * Output is 12W LED, but then they mention 800W incandescent? Edit: I've just checked the manual and I think it's referring to 'Additional switching capacity', i.e. extra LEDs, bulb, or fan...

I'll do that, thanks. In case it has any bearing on fault diagnoses - I topped the system up to 1 bar last night and this morning, 0830, it had dropped to 0.7 bar. No hot water usage and heating comes on around 0630. Between 0830-1130 the pressure dropped from 0.7 - 0.2 bar (a greater drop...