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More importantly, what's going on here? There's a printed label for the boiler on the sticker kit

Yea it's likely the wall twisting the body. Had this a couple of times, once you work out where the wall's not level you'll fix that - unless you've overtorqued the screws and totally bent the body :whistle:

It shouldn't bend, there's 3 screws holding the DIN rail in - or there should be

I was, and I wasn't. It's a mistake I've made in the past, and swore I wouldn't make again and did. First gen Apple products ALWAYS have a host of problems. I had a 2006 MBP that had CPU chirping which had 4 repairs and was then replaced. And the 2016 it's the keyboards. Both widespread and well...

Dunno, my 2016 MacBook Pro was definitely in the tat category! 4 repairs in 6 months for the same fault before they gave me a 2017 model. No QC going on there

I just prefer the stablok. Tbh neither of them would be my first choice visually!

Schneider are obviously top of the range, and the Resi9 range (not Easy9, that’s horrible) isn’t TOO badly priced. I got a price recently, and a 6+4 (they don’t do a 5+5) is about £90+MCBs

Third vote for Hager. It’s all we fit. A 5+5 costs £80 with MCBs. Can get slightly cheaper but not much so why bother? Top quality

Yea we get similar styled ones from our wholesalers for about £3 for site temp boards and the like. Sector is certainly a nice cheap brand

£43!!! £11 for a wylex one

Hager Sollysta also take 3x4mm². Even their plateswitches are rated for 2x4mm²

There could also be a break in the copper underneath the insulation where it's entered one of the boxes - the feed socket is more likely. Not common but I've seen it. My vote is for a termination issue, or a failed contact in the socket and there actually is voltage at the socket

Depends on the wall construction. If it’s wet plaster on block/brick I don’t have an issue with the box being a bit deeper as the connections are still enclosed. If it’s a stud or dot and dab wall and the box isn’t flush to the board you can get all sorts of crap in your boxes - found a...

I second that recommendation. Don’t know about securespark but I don’t know RF, I’m just going by work I’ve seen him post on here, and impeccable is the best word for it

The other risk is that the chrome sockets are slightly wider and will not fit that dual box. I've certainly had that problem with a twin+single combo dryliner box in the past.

There are two ways to look at this: They used a reputable electrical company to do the work, and the companies QS came and signed off his employees work - totally fine. They did the wiring themselves and got one of their mate's to come and sign it off - not so fine. Now, with some builders of...

Yea you may as well just link out the stat. In my flat it’s in the lounge, which has two rads (only a couple of TRVs in some other rooms) and it sucks. The room you want the warmest is always trying to close the stat

The idea behind that is nowadays you set the temperature in rooms individually with TRVs. The stat will then only open when that central, non-heated room reaches temp - ie never. You’re better off having the stat in a room with a rad with no TRV and set the temperature and TRVs accordingly

BG make 25mm compatible USB sockets, not sure if they’re part of the nexus range but they do do them

That BG range is fine in standard boxes, no deeper than a normal plastic switch. I’ve used electrical counter before specifically for BG accessories because they’re cheaper than the wholesaler we use who are not a BG stockist. They are one of the cheapest places for them I’ve found - must be a...