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Hi all Not sure if this is the right place to post - shout if not a roofing issue. Noticed today that a section of wall underneath roof was discoloured - especially the mortar between the bricks. Took a picture on a camera and it looks even more obvious than it does to the naked eye...

Anyone have any advice? Feel free to tell me if my question was inappropriate/stupid.

Hello All - hopefully I've chosen the right area to post. I have 2 repair jobs that need doing and I could really use some advice as I’ve never attempted concrete or brick repair before: – repair to the concrete interface between water channel and garage floor which has broken down (say...

Yeah, the other photo shows a crack in the plastic under the Live. Just to be clear I do have a proper cooker point, and cooker switch. This box is near the ceiling as something to do with ensuring cables in walls go down straight when work was done on the circuit. I went and bought the...

It really hasn't - it's just like that. There's no evidence of broken plastic, or where plastic was but now isn't. I suspect it would screw all the way down if it didn't meet a lot of resistance, perhaps the earth wires say. The consensus is that connecting the earth as in the photo isn't...

Thanks for the replies - very fast :) The junction box does prevent the outermost terminal from tightening properly (right in the picture) because there isn't raised plastic both sides of the terminal. When you try to tighten it, the brass side simply flexes outwards, and the screw slips...

Hi there Spent some time yesterday fixing my integrated oven installed last year by kitchen fitters - it wasn't screwed in properly and could pull out or be tipped. Not ideal. Anyway, I also took the opportunity to tighten some terminals, one of which was pretty lose. I also opened a...

Shower now working fine - thanks for all the advice. I obviously don't have the kit for any checks aside from a multimeter. Is there any sensible way I can test the earth now that I've changed the pull switch and put in a joint box?

Though actually after looking at it a bit more, it looks like the third option would be best and create the least resistance/best joint. The stands all flatten out and are screwed down tight, if both cables are flattened out on top of each other and tight, then this has to be better than...

Just a quick one: Have 60A jb - what is the best way to join the 2 6mm2 ends? - each end of cable half in joining block, 2 screws each - meshing the strands together the entire length of the block - each cable goes entire length of the block, not meshed. I assume it's the first one...

Oh absolutely - in the event testing showed my installation wasn't properly earthed, then I'd be more than keen to get it sorted (unexpected death at this time doesn't really appeal). I'll see what he says during the visit, but if he specifcally states upgrading to 10 is a requirement for him...

Ah interesting. The chap indicated he wouldn't be able to touch the shower circuit if the bonding wasn't 10mm2. I've no idea whether that's regulation now, so again this is the very real benefit of this forum. I always get multiple quotes in, and whether for building, electricity, gas etc...

Thanks again for all the replies gents. I've spoken to an electrician who sounded like he knew what he was talking about, and he's coming to see the job and quote. He talked about looking at the earth bonding too (on water and gas mains) as apparently it's supposed to be 10mm2 and not 6mm2...

The saga continues. After having bought some 6mm2 and removing the shower, I can now see the shower is labelled 9.6 - 10.5 Kw. I'm guessing a 16m run of 6mm2 with this shower is a no no? If so, pretty sh** that the electrician hired to do the job 5 years ago wired it in like that.

Well I suppose the cables aren't that tight. I assume you mean try to pull the supply cable through enough for a little extra, but not the load cable which has been burnt (I'd never get enough through to cut back to be sure of good unoverheated copper). However, given I'll have to buy some...

Ah of course. If the diameter was 10mm, the cross sectional area would be 78mm2, or 50mm2 if only counting strand area. I knew I was missing something basic. -------------------------- Update, OK so my cable is 6mm2. Contrary to what I expected, it's actually the load side of the pull...

Ah bloody hell. Now I'm not even sure whether the cable is 6mm2 or 10mm2. I was looking in a diy shed today at both 6 and 10 (though I'll probably not buy from there) - and the cross sections didn't look that much different. The 10 - although a larger total cable cross section...