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Thanks all for taking the time to reply. I'm not sure if I'd keep my FGA in the same bag as my tools Dean???!! If some **** nicks your tool bag you're talking serious money mate!! And try to explain that to the Insurance company, IF you can claim???!!

Tool bag mate, though I do have a mini bar in the back of the van....... :wink:

OP. I think I'd only install UFH in the ground floor & get a concrete screed in these areas if you can. Radiators maybe the best choice in the remaining areas & perhaps UFH on Bathroom/Shower room floors. HTH

I may have answered that in my previous post mate, but please ask away if I can enlighten further.

I agree Tony, even some ladies don't like hot bedrooms. And with you going through the 'change' & resulting hot flushes you'll not like too much heat.............. :wink: Seriously, sometimes the area of UFH under beds a omitted. So small bedrooms are a bit of a PITA to heat with UFH...

Not sure why you think ceiling height is a factor with VC??? When in old Churches etc it's the system of choice when the system is being replaced. Remember, you're heating people in these buildings & not buildings. Of course in homes the construction & U values are a big factor, you are...

I need to replace my toolbar & I can't decide which one to buy. I've a £20-50 budget & there's so many out there!!

Tony, a property will not require the same amount of heat to counteract the building heat loss. Convected heat has more air movement, more air changes & a higher heat loss. Convected heat will also have a higher heat loss through any ceiling or roof - due to the fact that the ceiling has a...

LOL!! Oh yes, the Scottish Nazi Party(SNP) can walk on water mate. It's these cnts that have added 3 hours to each day........ :D :D Well, I'd say common sense would tell you with the thermal mass & the low mean water temperatures, the boiler is hardly on during the normal 27hour...

Apparently, the sump cover seal should be changed at every service. It's a bit of a daft wee leak to have on these boilers!! But if that's the only main problem it's an easy fix. The other issue is the syphonic condense trap outlets getting blocked, I've had that a few times. Again, like...

It runs 27/7 with an overnight set-back temperature & just ticks over during the day, so the time the boiler is on is limited. Even less with weather compensation systems. Also, the mean water temperature of UFH suits condensing boiler to a T, the lower temperature of say 40degC or even less...

The UFH system is installed & tested prior to the floor screeds/finish. So little or no chance of any problems with that type of system. You can add UFH to any system. The thermal mass is the important thing; pipes in concrete is best, the thicker the better. The more thermal mass the...

There's several reasons why UFH should be the first & only choice when it comes to heating; 1. It generally runs at a much lower temperature than radiators, so the lower temperature the boiler is on less & you save a shed load of money. 2. UFH is mostly a radiant heat, it heat you & the fabric...

Thanks for that JC. I was looking for similar information as is detailed here for the combi; http://youtu.be/f4p3bn3Io3c

Any RGI know how to put the Heat model into Service Mode? Thanks chaps..... :wink:

Scottish, British & Proud Tony, I voted UKIP. Only 35% of the Scottish electret voted Scottish Nazi Party. Scottish people want to remain part of the UK.

I was right all along; http://www.theguardian.com/money/2010/may/15/fast-track-plumbing-courses

We do a lot of timber frame ree & we a a lot of other firms, only use Makita right angled drills.

I've never tried any Milwaukee stuff Lee, but you see plenty guys on site with it. Thanks everyone, I may just get another Makita core machine, stick to what I know........ :wink:

It works very well, just remember you need some kind of thermal mass. Plaster on the hard is quite good.