Search results

have you tried the overheat stats under the control panel?? Rather than persisting with problems get worcester out or BG for a fixed price repair, £200 ish!

BG will do you a fixed price repair for £180ish and they might be quicker than your plumber.

on some systems there are 2 switches!!!!!!!!!!! one down in the kitchen then another in the cylinder cupboard, you are not missing one...the other thing I have seen is electricians pinching the supply from the immersion to run an electric oven in the kitchen. this might jog your memory!

some banging and crashing before overheat cuts it off and all should go quiet. Should be able to handle an overheat ok. I would rather risk it than being cold! However I am not staniding infront of the boiler so can only hypothisise :-D

uncouple the rad, drain it. Fit hose to rad valve, drain CH system Cut pipe going to rad and fit a t piece with a drain off it. Change cylinder. Although, by you lack on knowhow I might recommend getting in a plumber....does house insurance cover DIY disasters???

most likley does not have a pilot. It may have overheated.... little red button just inside big white front cover. towards RHS on top of the control panel. Push in and it should go click. what does the pressure gauge say on the front? Should be 1 - 1.5 if below 1 it needs filled...

1: Check Trv's are not jammed shut 2: Change pump for nice new shiney Grundfos 15/60 3: Find the manifolds they are supplyed from, drain the system, cut out and clean. 4: Blockage at cold feed/expansion joining point to system?? (Use magnet to check....if it sticks its blocked.) 5...

as nicso says....start saving for the day it dies.... Heat exchangers are funny money!

Look at the joints and pipe work going into the cylinder, is it leaking?? Cylinders can leak from the side wall however. just a case of locating. if you find the leak and are a brave man on the side I have seen a brass screw being screwed in, to stop the leak. but that man was braver than...

It is always best practise to change the pump first before going for a powerflush, along with the radiator valves, I take it the plumber has checked that the pins on the TRV end of the rads are not jammed in?? A simple powerflush tends not to do anything as there is usually a reason as to why...

you could just tighten the nut up?? LSX by fernox is a quick setting silicone...but it horrible stuff used by cowboys...if needs must however

after filling up the beastie, you could fiddle with the outer case as it may be simply rattling, or it could be the fan starting to get noisey.

Have you left the filling loop open or have you opened it further rather than shutting it off?? Once properly shut off, drain it off to 1 - 1.5 bar. Is the pressure up when the heating is on or off??

They come as standard on the Gledhill Gulfstream boiler/unvented tank!!!! Seems like a good idea, does away with end users running the system dry after bleeding a system, however does away with pumping over and drawing air.

Well flick those pages right on over to point J and have a read. The books are really quite easy to follow!

The lights have a sequence of flashing that will tell you the fault according to what it says in the manf. instructions. They have fast and slow flashes and either the tap or the radiator symbol.

Could be lots of things on this boiler, PCB, Spark electrode, APS, gas valve. You have to tell BG before the annual visit as they will not do much as its a saftey check not a visit to fix things.

You will wait a while as BG wont to an initial inspection for a while as this is the busy time of year. you would be better calling them up and asking them to come out, coming clean to the engineer and they may only charge for the parts??

Have you got a sealed system, therefore you should have a pressure gauge telling you if there is any water in the system. after a drain down I would expect the system pressure to fall, and if you have blead any rads then that would cause it to go down! you should refil to 1.5 bar

You have to remove the fan to fit a new one. Its not too involved but still very dangerous if you dont know what you are about. worst case senario, gas leak, explosion, death?? I might suggest this is not a DIY job.