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Phone an expert, or get a wiring diagram from the FAQ's and follow it through. Its like joint the dots, Timeclock to room stat/tank stat to motorised valve live. Then orange is perm live to valve endswitch, grey to boiler and pump If its a y plan then its a bit more complex, as you...

What speed is the pump on?? there is a little white adjustment knob on the side that will tell you. Some pumps slow down with age, so before you get cutting out pipework looking for a restriction in the system, I would get a new shiney Grundfos pump in there; maybe even uprate to a 15/60 if...

you dont need to push pin down either, make sure Head is set to max then screw it on, some have a hexagonal pattern to help the head locate in the correct direction and stop it spinning

make sure the lock sheild valves are opened up enough, no flow, no heat. should be enough half way, but depends if they are on the flow to the rad or the return. Feel which gets hot first, if on the flow then might be worth opening them further than half.

Configuration is all ok, Expansion, cold feed, pump. Yes, no bypass, but thats not causing the problem here.

or an overheat problem. Baxi released a rework kit if you have gravity hot water. Can be thermistor problems, pcb, gas valve, or wiring. Have had all of the above causing lock out. As said though, dirt in pilot and or oxypilot sensing tube is first shout

The cam that you are looking at is the DHW actuator. Pin should come out as tap is turned, pushing cam upto Left and makes red micro switch. This can be adjusted but if it does not move at all then I would suspect thats this is faulty also, although I have not worked on these boilers much.

Stuck diverter: when you turn on hot tap there would be some heat to the rads. Does the boiler actually fire when you turn on the tap??

Pump?? Has the overheat popped causing it to stop firing??

Bargain..... everone call Tony when the wax divertor capsule fails!!! :lol: Seriously.... the water section can leak on these causing the microswitch to rust up sticking on thus keeping everything on as the others have said. Further to this...if the pump sticks on these boilers...

There will be air in the system and the boiler has overheated causing it to switch off. there is a small button underneith just right of centre, you have to poke your finger through the plastic tray and you should feel it click. CAUTION: SWITCH OFF THE POWER SUPPLY TO THE SYSTEM IF YOU ARE...

The first may be the valves are in the wrong way round...on ACL valves there is an 'A' and then a 'B' this is the direction of flow.... Second possibly boiler stat out of calibration causing overheat or Faulty pump sticking after a while Third.....get a new Grundfos pump fitted...

The thermistors on these are the disc type and normally very reliable but I would be out with the multimeter on Ohms to see what reading it was giving. When you turn the tap what happens??? any noise? and then you say its similar for CH.....what about when you turn on timer?? Air...

Could have been the other thermistor as there are 2. The primary and the HW one. I usually just plug in a new one without actually changing it to test my theory first. And always change a pair as if one has gone the other one will follow soon after...only £15 each.

What about the internals of a honeywell zone valve for a larger dome?? you can get the service kit for about a fiver. How did you get on with the clearing of your blockage in that awkward pipe Chris??

hole in you diaphram.

Two carrots will do the trick!!! :lol:

Where is the pressure gauge sited?? as this will also effect the system pressure. 1.8 bar is too high IF the pressure gauge is at the top of the system, you would be looking at 2.8 bar at the bottom.

This is not a boiler to be played about with!!!!!! Best to get BG out on a fixed price repair to have a look. Sounds like it is overheating or is it locking out and you are reseting that way??