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  1. C

    Water based satin poor finish

    Just use the diamond you already have. If you want to you can use the recommended primer/undercoat which is the dulux trade quick dry undercoat. However I'd use the one you already have. The diamond satin is a great paint and very durable once dry.
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    Water based satin poor finish

    Primer/undercoat is fine, you just have to be quick. The 2nd coat will then finish the job. You should only need one coat of primer/uc though.
  3. C

    Water based satin poor finish

    I'd stick with the diamond as it has something in it which helps it adhere to surfaces better. I personally would undercoat first but it will probably be ok.
  4. C

    Water based satin poor finish

    The 2nd coat will go on much better. On top of primer/undercoat you will have very little time to work with satin. It may help to add a drop of water and whatever you do, don't overwork it. Get it on quick and move along. It does have a real tendency to drag as it's trying to dry quickly. The...
  5. C

    Artex pattern

    I would say so. Are you patching it up or are you doing another room similar? I've used many things from scrunched up bin liners to flip flops. But if you're just trying to patch then I think you could do that with a brush. It doesn't have to be that wide.
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    Artex pattern

    Looks like it's done with a brush!
  7. C

    satin paint for interior doors

    I love the Leyland trade fast drying satin. About £25 for 2.5 litres. You'll need two coats and my advice would be to get it on quick and don't keep going over it. Especially on the first coat going on the primer!
  8. C

    Valspar paint peeling off

    Out of interest, the watered down white emulsion wasn't silk was it?
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    Paint not sticking to filler?

    If it's just ordinary filler you can pop some acrylic primer/undercoat on it before painting. I always do this on any filler as it can flash through the emulsion.
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    Correct way to repaint surface

    Takes me back to college. Glossing a 10 x 8 foot wall in gloss with a 4 inch brush!
  11. C

    Filler for lining paper gap

    Best thing to do is get a Stanley knife and cut away any lifted edges on the paper. This will give you a nice flat edge to fill to. You can always cut with the Stanley and then wet the paper and it should come off nice and neat!
  12. C

    Paint for doors

    Are they oil based glossed at the moment? If so you may need an undercoat before using that. Also be aware it's not very easy to spread out without leaving brush strokes.
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    Paint for doors

    2.5 ltrs will easily do it
  14. C

    Dulux silk - new paint looks different!

    Then I'd guess it is faulty. If silk is finished like matt there's definitely something wrong with it. It wouldn't surprise me if someone's bought the silk, used a little bit and filled the tin back up with matt and got a refund for it. The tin has then just ended up back on the shelf! Also a...
  15. C

    Dulux silk - new paint looks different!

    Sorry I'm confused. Are you talking about gloss or silk?
  16. C

    How to cover cracks like this

    The scrape out is just to help with the bonding. Getting filler into the gap means it's less likely to come back
  17. C

    Dulux silk - new paint looks different!

    It still looks like silk to me if we're talking about the bottom picture. Even today many magnolias are different colours, brilliant whites are even worse. I suggest you buy Leyland trade magnolia silk, 10lt for £18 in screwfix and go over the whole room. It's coverage is excellent. The...
  18. C

    How to cover cracks like this

    You can slightly take it out a bit with a hook scraper. This will give it a nice V shape. Then put in some sandable polyfilla and rub level when dry. Before painting put some acrylic primer/undercoat on the sanded down filler to stop it flashing through!
  19. C

    Emulsioning new plaster

    Buy some contract Matt. 10 litres of Leyland trade for about 15 quid. 20% water will be fine!
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