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Check with your local council and planning portal - but as you will be have sleeping accommodation you will need consent. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200126/applications/60/consent_types/2

I would talk to the neighbour about it anyway, as that cable will be in the way, rather than notch and trap the cable it would be better diverting the cable along a suitable path.

Good oh! It's just not worth keeping old stuff get it in the bin lol Glad to hear it's looking good

Or just buy a nice saw lol

Is there any dates on it when you should use it by? How long have you had it stored? Is this the same stuff you have used the past 4-5 times?

I wouldn't mix handles and knobs personally. Not sure what others think and if they have experience of it and the ins and outs and if they might look ok

Personally I like the nice large ceramic knobs ha

20mm X 20mm timber along the full length of the back edge overhanging the ply so you can fix to the upstand/wall. You can fix up through the ply into the Batton . If the ply is a good fit between the upstand and front edge of should help stop it moving, with a router there will be alot of...

By the way doing it in a few passes will cause less stress and a neater cut, and of course a nice sharp cutter.

A piece of ply 12mm for the thickness of the collet, maybe 500mm wide with a 20 X 20 on the back edge will allow you to get more than one clamp on the front edge and where you are cutting back the upstand , you should be able to get a screw through that part, or the 20x20 longer, into the wall...

Edgar Watson's used to sell nice wire pins I used to use for the smaller jobs , what about life before panel adhesive gasp!

Yikes! I would take the edging strip of and router it if possible, getting a clamp on the back edge is going to be a challenge thought.

Mark the 47 degrees angle on the edges of your wood, then go to your saw, it will work ones side or the other

Indeed, so many options

To be honest I would ask the kitchen company at what height they want them if you're having it fitted. If not have a look on the wall units at the set back and how large the wall plates are, where the fixing holes come etc first and work it out from there.

Either depending upon what the customer requirements are.

My friend who builds kitchens does kitchens that have a timber frame on the front face that's about 40mm wide in parrot wood I believe that's close grained which is painted. Doors are then inset in the frame which are painted by hand or sprayed.

Setting out geometry.

Always room for a nice sharp pencil and a bit of timber then drawn on the floor boards (not the carpet unless masking tape is used first) I don't know about a compass thing.