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Just use hardwall.

If its in a place where water won't reach it then i just use an oil based undercoat

I would always recommend 2 coats on walls, you may be doing fine so give it another coat and see what the results are. Just a few pointers: work in straight lines up and down (don't start in the middle like DIY vids suggest) blend in each column as you go and pull the roller away from the...

Never used that product but it should do the trick, maybe give the stains a couple of thin coats just to be sure.

Have you checked up in the loft? And for blocking the stain its oil based undercoat you want and not the suggested gloss.

Forgot to ask, what is the difference between the blocks and existing wall?

You can dot and dab the board on using plasterboard adhesive. 9.5mm and 12.5mm are the common sizes, 12.5 would be better.

Just plasterboard and then skim it or tape and fill the joints. If you do really want to have a go at plastering then plasterboard and skim would be the best time to try, if it does go wrong then it's only a small to fix. (Not saying it will go wrong just giving the options)

Can't help with the damp coarse situation but as for your decking there would be no need to level out the whole area, just lay slabs about 1.5 metres apart to get your level then put the decking onto them. The decking will then be elevated off ground level allowing the water to just run away...

Have you got a picture of the area and what is the product you used?

Without knowing exact size it could be anything between £150 and £300 depending on what the client wanted of coarse and also area plays a factor. If you can make it as easy as possible for the painter ie remove furniture from a room then that would bring down the price.

The best finish I could think of would be to have a batten either side of the glass but leave a over hang of plaster board so you end up with the batten being flush with the edge of plasterboard then use an angle bead and fill. You will end up with a edge the thickness of the board (12.5mm) plus...

I can be a bit of a nutter on a ladder but even I would get scaffolding for that job.

Just so I'm fully understanding you want to place a pane of glass within a stud wall (which is not a problem) but want it flush on one side.

Put two more coats of Matt on and it should look fine then. The paint being absorbed believe it or not is a good thing, means you now have a good surface to now paint onto. When painting new plaster the paint is thinned with water to allow the plaster to absorb it.

You could finish the edge with a plasterboard stop bead then fill and feather out with easi fill. That will give you a nice straight edge to butt the window up to.

It may well be your drilling at a slight angle. Have you checked under carpets etc is there any pipes running underneath?

How deep are you actually drilling?

If you have corrected the problem with the flag stones then surely there is no need for all this extra work. Just wait for it to all dry out.

There's no need to sand the walls providing they have a Matt finish. Use a grade 80 paper for the woodwork, sand it to take off the shine. Wash any grease and grime away before painting.