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Not ideal. Continental ones had some kind of potting compound over the screws.

They did, as did AC/DC valve radios, but they were required to be insulated to a degree that made touching the chassis impossible. Even the various inputs and outputs were often connected via safety capacitors.

Then you can’t just connect a light and a double socket to the EV supply, i.e. OP needs another cable.

You do have conductor size and MCB rating. Conductors will likely be 2.5 or 4 mm2, MCB 16, 20, or 32 A. 16 or 20 indicate a radial, 2.5 mm2 and 32 A a ring, 32 A and 4 mm2 a radial. If you have 2.5 mm2, 32 A and no continuity on only one or two conductors, it’s likely a broken ring, if there’s...

I was under the impression that EV chargers are supposed to be on a dedicated circuit.

Doesn’t matter, the AC is immediately rectified and turned into DC. AC polarity really only matters in a few specific cases, e.g. upstream of single-pole switches (like light switches), fuses, and with Edison lamp holders. Some complex circuits in older gas boilers also rely on correct polarity...

Cables are usually expected to be double-insulated or have an earthed metal sheath so I do suspect the sheath of T&E is tested. One of the few exceptions is H03VV-F flat twin flex, which probably falls under „reinforced insulation“ but is almost extinct anyway.

Me neither, which is why I suggested calling in a local spark and offering to dig the trench.

Then you need to figure out how the existing socket is connected, probably best to get an electrician to check. An electrician would probably be quite happy if you offered to do the digging and they‘d just have to lay the cable and connect it.

Fine dust (especially flour) can cause nasty explosions though if there‘s enough of it in the air, yet household packs of flour never have amy warnings. Presumably because you need a lot more than one pack to cause any serious danger.

Some fillers contain cellulose, so I assume the powder might be combustible. This one doesn’t seem to do though.

Are there any outside sockets? In that case you could run an armoured cable from there to the shed, although you might need a fused connection unit depending on how everything is wired.

As long as the Wagos are accessible, you could always spur from the Wagos in the future.

Since they mentioned the transformer being connected together with the bell push I'd definitely read it as the former - if they knew where the transformer is they could simply bridge its terminals and use batteries instead.

Anyone carrying out an EICR I suppose.

Considering most older installations had the cooker switch dead centre right above the hob/cooker, I really can't see anyone turning that off while a frying pan is on fire on that cooker. The only two purposes of cooker switches are isolating while working on a hard-wired appliance/replacing...

The problem is that Luisete needs to physically locate the old transformer in the house to be able to replace it.

This is just a guess but I‘d think there‘s a layer of metal or flame-retardant plastic behind the timber and there‘s definitely plastic around the contacts on the socket face. I‘d assume that’s what makes this type of socket acceptable.

That wouldn‘t comply for a new install, would it?

Not in the pictures but OP will need that since the switches won‘t fit standard ones.