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Certainly, the question is whether you really want to ignore it. Personally I wouldn‘t want to replace one of these live if there was a dead short.

I agree, there‘s absolutely no need for neutral sensing in the UK. If there was, no one could use single-pole MCBs either.

It looks like there are three T&E cables. Two have the black wires connected together, the third cut off. It seems reasonable to me that the former two cables are feed in and feed out (L and N), while the third red is the switched live. That means the bottom two reds into common, the top left...

However, our debate started with the difference between 1-pole + N and double pole. To my knowledge, both types break line and neutral simultaneously but only the latter has current sensing in the neutral path, the former merely a mechanical switch.

There is one advantage to plug-in MCBs: you can safely reset a tripped one without turning off the main switch and killing power to the whole house. Very much not recommended with rewirable fuses.

Yes, current sensing on the neutral would only be necessary in case of both a dangerously high N-E voltage and a simultaneous N-E fault, along with sufficiently low loop impedance. I honestly have no idea what exactly was the reasoning back in the day, I only know I‘ve read historic regs that...

Thanks for the link! I‘m not sure I feel comfortable buying electrical accessories from AE though. If I ever actually need it I‘ll probably buy it locally once I‘m there or order one from a more reliable source.

The assumption is that a poorly earthed TT neutral can assume enough of a dangerous potential to require automatic disconnection in case of a neutral - earth fault, i.e. overcurrent sensing in the neutral path and/or RCD protection. Fusing the neutral, as in using a wire fuse, is certainly not a...

I suppose you could get around the lack of shutters by gluing the adaptor to the plug.

The fact that the whole name plate is in Chinese is another giveaway that this shouldn't have been sold in the UK (or anywhere else in Europe). Pretty much all travel adaptors are dubious to a degree, which is why I've collected a large number of international plugs over the years and made my...

With MCBs that's definitely the difference between 1P+N and DP. As I said, there's countries that have 133/230 V supplies, e.g. Belgium. I think the requirement for overcurrent protection of both live conductors is a matter of fault protection (i.e. L-E faults) rather than overload/short...

Not on the neutral, only on the live. Double pole means both poles have thermal and magnetic protection, which is necessary if you've got 230 V between two phases and some places require the neutral to be fused in TT installations.

1P+N usually means that the neutral is switched but doesn't have overload protection. At least that's what I've been told.

The travel adaptor they supplied (and the fact they even needed to include one) doesn‘t inspire much confidence in the quality of the kettle. These universal sockets accept almost any type of plug but none of them fit properly and safely.

There are two T&E cables with one red wrapped in brown tape and both earths twisted together. These earths need to stay connected.

Also an extremely common value, especially in switching mode power supplies.

If this is indeed permanent live, neutral and earth, I‘d run T&E from here to the new switch and another length from the switch to the new light. That has two advantages: - You have a neutral at the switch, which means you could uograd to a smart switch in the future. - You only have one cable...

I‘d ask for them to fit an isolator. Then any electrician can sort out the T&E at a later date without messing with the meter seal. You can easily tell the difference between single phase and three phase. Single phase means four wires connected to the meter, three phase needs eight. Also three...

You could see if there‘s a permanent live at the light. If not, you could bypass the switch and fit multiple kinetic switches at the curren light.

You could use an FCU as the switch. 2.5 T&E from the socket to the FCU, 3 A fuse, 1 mm T&E to the lights.