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It's a plain old plug. Cable runs from plug to a switch, switch runs to a JB which splits 3-ways to 2x 24v LED transformers and 1x 2-pin lead for strip lights.

No earth on the lights, they are 2-pin connections, so I guess it's fine. Thanks!

Hope somebody can tell me if this is against regs... In my kitchen, previous owners have put over-cabinet lighting that plugs into a wall socket. However, they've added a cabinet-mounted switch between the plug and the light. Is this acceptable? If so, what is the alternative? Take a fused...

I know what you're saying winston, but the module is exactly the same as the one that is rated at 300w in a single-gang switch. So I believe the reason it is limited to 150w in a 2-gang config is because they would overheat if run side-by-side with >150w load on each one. The fact that Varilight...

On the first switch, a lamp failed yes. At this time, Varilight indicated this could have damaged the dimmer. The last 2, no lamp failures.

So its a 2-gang switch, both gangs in a 2-way config. 1 gang has 160w (4x40w) of lamps on it, the other has 240w (6x40w). The dimmers are Varilight. I've so far had 2 master switches from the 'VPlus' range, and 1 'VPro' master switch - all 3 have failed on one gang or both. I've also gone...

They're Osram dimmable mains-voltage bulbs, no transformers in the circuit. My multimeter measures 247v at the switch.

They're mains halogen lamps, g9. The first 2 dimmers were leading-edge, the manufacturer then sent me a trailing-edge which also failed.

I've had a series of problems with dimmer switches for lounge lighting. I've now had 3 failures where the switch runs incredibly hot and eventually gives up. My lamps are well within the rated range of the switch and the manufacturer is scratching their head too. Clutching at straws, but I can...

In my lounge I've got 2-gang 2-way dimmer switches, 1 gang is for wall lights and the other is for ceiling. They are Varilight V-Plus, 1 master and 1 slave unit. I previously had issues with 1 gang (https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/dimmer-switch-issue.528383/ for reference), and got a...

I chopped the remote receiver out of the circuit today and wired the fan and light direct to the mains. Flipped the light switch and its all working :) So looks like I just need a new remote kit. The 'reverse' switch on the fan body doesn't work (it just makes the fan stop but can still hear...

I know the feeling - finished my lounge, turned the wall lights on... cast a shadow on some filler I'd missed when sanding the wall. Nobody else has even noticed it but I can't stop staring at it! Let us know how you get on.

A pro job wouldn't normally have lap marks - I am quite anal about laying off and ensuring I don't get any. I would say the majority of houses have them tho - probably nobody other than yourself or a decorator would even notice them!

Ceilings always tend to suction more than walls in my experience, also bear in mind its a good few degrees warmer by the ceiling than it is in the middle of the room. Personally I'd be tempted to thin it by about 5%. If you have roller marks tho you might need a re-sand and wipe-down first...

If I wired the supply live/neutral directly into the fan live/neutral for testing, do you think I am likely to cause a problem? I doubt there's any kind of transformer in the remote receiver but you never know I guess...

Any ideas how I might go about finding that out? I can't see any information on the fan itself, even under the light bulb cover. From looking at their website, it looks very much like a Viper but with halogen rather than LED.

The light doesn't work either - the remote control seems to be for everything, with no overrides / pull-cords on the fan unit itself. I'll get a photo but in the meantime, this is the remote in question. Blue/brown on the rhs connect to the mains. The 3 on the lhs are marked motor live, motor...

I've got a fantasia ceiling fan/light in my conservatory, which hasn't worked since the day I moved in. I have finally got round to looking into it, and not sure how to go about testing it. These contraptions have a remote receiver mounted in the ceiling ball. I am fairly sure the remote is...

Installing noggins between the visible joist and the one beneath the wall shouldn't be a problem - I was just worried this still wouldn't be enough. Although I guess if I put 3 screws per end per noggin, this should give me at least 300 lbs of shear strength. If I do that, and also throw in a...

Just to be clear on the specifics of tying it up... what would it be tied to exactly? Span the wire between 2 joists and pin to both? I wouldn't want to tie it up to the underside of a board, as if anybody lifts that board they'd take the pipe with it!