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Typical, while renovating the kitchen I took all the old ceilings down, while they were down I fitted new plumbing - thought I'd try plastic as I could thread them through the joists etc. Used the proper tools used proper inserts etc. left the pipework exposed for 6 months while I got on with...

So from that thread, outcome appears to be run the cable in metal conduit. (swa cable?) I could run it from the cooker outlet plate but it would still create a hidden safe zone. Can it be taken into account that the cable would be mechanically protected by a stainless splash back - hence no...

Cheers, makes sense. I'll be using 1.5mm from the isolator switch to the socket - should be ok for radius or I could use something like this :- http://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-galvanised-adaptable-box-with-knockouts-100-x-100-x-50mm/45444 which would be covered by the splashback.

Cheers, It will be extracting yes, I was considering an unswitched socket (the appliance came without a plug so I thought fcu would just be as good), wouldn't the horizontal / vertical arrangement fall foul of safe zones? Altho the cable would be mechanically protected with a splash back I guess.

Setup looks like this, and I need a feed to the hood. What would be the ideal way to acheive this? (or how do you do it) I'm thinking spur off the ring upto the isolator bring cable down then back up to a fcu hidden inside the chimney part (lots of cable) plus not so easy to change the...

Could you just use armored cable in this instance (does that offer mechanical protection outside of safe zones?) I've a similar situation for cooker hood and routing - would save cable going up and down the walls. Cable from floor to isolator, back down to floor, then back up to fcu or...

Thank you for the reply

I need to add a new radial circuit for a hob and cooker. The hob is induction type running at 6kw and the oven is 2.3kw with diversity I make out the demand to be about 22.5amps So should I just use 6mm cable and a 32amp mcb or should I future proof with 10mm while everything's in bits...

I wish it was that easy! i've a question I need to ask about electrics but hardly dare post as I know i'll get asked about notifications, qualifications and part p. I agree with this when people blatently aren't making an effort or not understanding what they are doing - telling someone how to...

My problem with notification is this, I have pretty bad social phobia - I find using telephones extremely difficult (I had to get a gas pipe capped off recently and took me 2 weeks to sort out a fitter - causing some delay). You may laugh but it's not funny to me. I research and read as much...

you could screw two battens behind the PB either side of the box and screw into that through the side of the pattress (drilling a few holes?) There would be a little patching to do with the wall finish tho. (or that heh, beat me to it)

I considered that too, but thought it would be a hassle to replace the appliance - fishing for the wire etc. I'm liking the idea of the wago connectors - but like I said over engineered for a once in a blue moon swap :D Strip out the innards, attach wago (27p each) to t&e, attach flex to...

I know, I just like to think in advance and makes things easier (and usually over engineer everything in the process...) I mean this is an appliance that probably gets changed once in a blue moon too :oops:

I have, I'm thinking in advance - the design of the flex outlet plate i'm using (marbo) would mean leaving a length of t&e available so you can actually get to the terminals to wire the appliance in - flex being more flexible would mean I could leave a longer length of cable which I can then...

Yes I do, but this is for under counter appliances - fcu above worktop and flex outlet underneath (Not much room behind appliance for a unswitched socket and a plug) I'd rather not do it this way, but seems neater.

Cheers, just makes it easier to replace the appliance instead of using t&e - you would think the design of the flex outlet plates would be better (unless i'm looking at the wrong ones) Would be ideal if you didn't have to remove the whole plate to change stuff!

Is it acceptable to use flex to connect a FCU to a Flex outlet plate? (In a cavity)

okay it'll have to wait tho :( I can live with it for now. Incidently the temp gauge on the front of the boiler is reading 60c, only dropping to 50c at position 2 on the hot water control.

Thanks Tony, Looking at the boiler diagram there's not a lot else it can be, unless it's the main control board or the heat exchanger (but we don't have a lot of build up here so can't imagine it's that) Hasn't been a gradual increase just happened suddenly - I'll get some temps later. The...

My old vaillant vuw242e DHW is too hot even when turned down would this be a thermistor problem ?