Cooker Hood wiring ideas

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Setup looks like this, and I need a feed to the hood.

O16dY.jpg


What would be the ideal way to acheive this? (or how do you do it)

I'm thinking spur off the ring upto the isolator bring cable down then back up to a fcu hidden inside the chimney part (lots of cable) plus not so easy to change the fuse if needed and there's no space behind the oven for the fcu (also dont want to chase flex cable into the wall - I've not checked to see if the appliance can be rewired with standard t&e)
 
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You can do it as you've suggested, or you can run the cable horizontally from the isolator to the centre of the cooker hood and then vertically to the FCU. If it is an extractor rather than a recirculator (so will have sealed ducting within the chimney) then you can fit a single socket in the space and just plug the hood into it. If it is a recirculating type then ideally make the connection outside of the chimney else it will be saturated with condensation from all the steam so will need to be suitable protected.
 
Cheers,

It will be extracting yes, I was considering an unswitched socket (the appliance came without a plug so I thought fcu would just be as good), wouldn't the horizontal / vertical arrangement fall foul of safe zones? Altho the cable would be mechanically protected with a splash back I guess.
 
You would be creating a vertical safe zone with the socket/FCU and the horizontal zone is there from your other sockets and the isolator. Cables must be within the safe zones but you can change direction if needed (bear in mind the safe bending radius for the cable you are using would need to be wholey contained within it).

As yours is extracting then I would use an unswitched socket (switched would be fine too, but unswitched would make it more obvious that it is isolated elsewhere should someone need to work on it in the future). You can just leave the excess flex coiled within the chimney.
 
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I would run it from the cooker outlet plate so that all associated cooking appliances are controlled by the cooker switch.

Are your horizontal cable runs in safe zones?
 
So from that thread, outcome appears to be run the cable in metal conduit. (swa cable?)
I could run it from the cooker outlet plate but it would still create a hidden safe zone.
Can it be taken into account that the cable would be mechanically protected by a stainless splash back - hence no one would attempt to drill through it anyway?

Main kitchen ring isn't technically in a safe zone - at floor level in plastic conduit - however there is no skirting board going there and the cables are perfectly visible.
 
So from that thread, outcome appears to be run the cable in metal conduit.
That would be my preference.


(swa cable?)
Conduit would be easier than terminating SWA at both ends, but you'll need a bending machine.

I could run it from the cooker outlet plate but it would still create a hidden safe zone.
If you supply it from there then you'll need to replace the isolator with an FCU.

Can it be taken into account that the cable would be mechanically protected by a stainless splash back - hence no one would attempt to drill through it anyway?
Sounds reasonable.


Main kitchen ring isn't technically in a safe zone - at floor level in plastic conduit - however there is no skirting board going there and the cables are perfectly visible.
It's not concealed, therefore the question of being in a zone does not arise.
 

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