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What are the pros for open vented in this case ?

What tools do you use to measure and mark the wall ? a measuring tape is not enough with vertical rads and drawing lines onto tiles is a problem too esp if they smudge or arent visible.

What's the best strategy to install a designer rad (although this is applicable to all radiator types) ? By that I mean getting the brackets installed correctly so that the rad sits on all 4 brackets instead of the top two or bottom two, whilst also ensuring the pipes line up and fit into their...

Do you have any more info on this ? Is this for single or double ? also because they dont have any convector fins ?

I don't have any pics, its a type A.

But isn't that also applicable to external facing uninsulated walls, pvc french doors etc ? I thought the positioning of the radiator under the window was done back in the days to warm up any draughts getting through.

Sorry, I meant drain valves.

I've got a few jammed radiator stop cocks. If I pull them out by force, can I keep the stop cock and just replace the seal or must I replace the whole thing ? If I need a rubber seal, can someone advise which seal I require.

I was thinking of adding a small unvented cylinder for the kitchen taps. 35c is usually more than enough to wash dishes. Is there any guidance on temp and turnover ? i.e. 2 turnovers per day, min temp = 45c

If a cylinder has a high turnover, can the water temp be lowered ? Since a major contributor to Legionella growth is stale water, hence heating it above 60c. If the cylinder water has a turnover of 2-3 per day, can the temp be lowered to 30-40c ?

I've set up weather comp with a viessmann 100-w B1KF (2021 model) with a thermostat. The thermostat temp reads 22.1c, the boiler's desired room temp is set to 23c. However, I have notice that the boiler will run for 20min then the burner turns off whilst the pump is still running, then 10-20min...

This just feels so counter-intuitive. Surely, the deminerialised water will be more corrosive since it has no minerals and will leech minerals from the system ?

Is using demineralised water in the CH, is inhibitor required ?

What kind of smart system controls are you talking about it ? Presumably opentherm load compensation ?

When looking at radiators, what is meant by "tapping centre" ?

How do I tighten the water inlet nut for the fill valve without the whole mechanism moving ? Right now, I have to grab the whole thing and there is a chance I might break a plastic piece or something. Surely, there must be another way.

When talking about boiler sizing, how does one make sense of the kW rating. Lets say we have 2 heat-only boilers for CH, one is 11kW and the other is 19kW - Is this rating related to water output or max temp ?

Does anyone know of any vertical radiators which have the water in/out not on the sides at the bottom. like towel rads ?

^woody is right. Plasterboard is fire resistant and in your case should suffice. Fire rated plasterboard is only something I would use for insulation that isn't non-combustable (Class A1, A2, B). i do think using insulated plasterboard is better than filling the joists since the wood can act as...

The proper solution to steam is good ventilation and in the case of the kitchen an extractor fan. Damp and mould is an unavoidable facet of a poorly ventilated property. If you are renovating, I would consider looking into MVHR, or the lesser desirable PIV (with a heater ideally). PIV is cheaper...