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Use an Oftec registered person or one recommended. Needed for the warranty. We have a list of parts to inspect and clean and some parts that need replacing. Your engineer will know what needs doing

Check your fire valve hasn’t activated.

Yes 2.5m is the recommenced distance so as to not cause a nuisance. But to comply if it does cause a nuisance then plume diverter kits can be fitted.

Servicing wouldn't have stopped it. But as per terms and conditions they required yearly service for warranty. Heatrae are very lenient. Most other manufacturers would have just No. The cost for not servicing is going to cost about £500 could have been much more.

i have fitted loads of both these types of pump. the salamander is a little quieter. they will both still pump whenthe volume from the mains being drawn is over 12lt/per min and increase the pressure by about 1 bar. if the mains volume is below 12lt/min then they will suck in from the main and...

Are you sure it's green and not blue? If blue then it just needs the resetting. Go,to section 8.9 for the explanation.

thank god i get contract rebates!!!!doesn't matter where i buy from i still get them but merchants are always cheaper. Depends on how many boilers you fit each year

how have you sealed the external joints?

you either have to be G3 qualified and registered with a competent person scheme or have applied to building control to carry out the works and for them to inspect it complies with the regs

a sticking end switch will give a code 8. code 8 is due to flow temp being >5 than set point. end switch creates demand but no where for flow to go if auto bypass to close to boiler or not installed. it will eventually change to code 5 then code 3 then back to code 8 and continue the cycle

if the filters are clen and you have changed the pump coil then i would be looking at the ignition transformer starting to fail or the control unit. transformer more likely though

You said you had an oil delivery. Most likely suit been dragged through or filter/s blocked

This one normally has the Honeywell diverter. Take off the diverter head ( press in little metal button and rotate anti Clockwise)push down the divertor . These do get stiff with age. Often best to replace. )

take the front cover off. the filling loop is there above the burner to the right. Read your manual and on page 6/7 it shows you colour pictures of what you are looking for.

A boiler service is just that a service. If it requires parts then you will be charged for those parts and the time to fit them. Very similar to a car MOT. pay for mot and then pay for anything that needs to be done

requires a qualified gas safe registered engineer to investigate and repair. this is not a diy repair

what age is the boiler? i would change the photocell as the cheapest and one of the most common failure parts on a rdb

Dan how does the isense Rf open therm controller work?

There are a few points that need to be checked. What is the hot water flow rate? What output has the burner been set at? ( nozzle size) Do you have thermostatic mixer showers fitted. Does the problem happen at all tap outlets or only some?

Afraid fixitflav you are well out of your depths here. And the giving out of gas advise outside of the combustion chamber is not allowed under the forum rules. you can do as much fishing as you like on google but i'm afraid certain information is restricted and is not available on the internet...