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Thanks, My roof is similar to that. You see the "hangers", well I have one up the middle, basically right above where it says load bearing wall. I havent got the binders. But 4 (2 on each side) supporting 'struts' (?) at an angle from the outside hangers to about 3/4 the way up to the ridge.

Solutions would be nice. Anyway, I doubt I'd die as underneath there is a supporting wall running nearly the length of the purlin so the ceiling joists cant go anywhere anyway.... I understand perfectly why it is there. I understand it is necessary when the ceiling joists do not span the...

Cos I've got eyes you ****wit.

Thanks for your help.

Wrong again. The joists dont sit on it, THE PURLIN SITS ACROSS THE JOISTS. THE PURLIN IS MERELY NAILED INTO THE JOISTS - HARDLY MASSIVE RECINFORCEMENT.

Moron. This is for DIY advice init? I'm not a friggin expert in this field, I dont know all the terms. Try reading the post properly before jumping in all guns blazing Mr Jobsworth.

So I guess you're not professional advice then! Dont worry, I'm not interested in making my house unsafe. I am merely looking at the options. Like I said its above a "supporting wall". Does this not count for anything?

Whilst your climbing down from your high horse..... Its not supporting the rafters if you read the post properly, its supporting the CEILING joists. I have separate, larger, beefier purlins supporting the roof itself.

I currently have a purlin which is sitting across a join in the ceiling joists, the width of my loft. The purlin happens to also be above the partition wall below. Simple question. Can I remove this purlin if I re-inforce the joins with bolts? I only have 6ft 2in of height at the...

I have a purlin running the width of my loft which joins the celing joists which are done as 2 sections if you know what I mean. The purlin is located up the middle, and I presume is used as a means of supporting the join of the two ceiling joists so it doesnt sag. I need to remove this...

Get another plumber around?

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=A434849&ts=04372&id=47639# That'll be this one then :lol: My pipes to the shower, will be coming out of a solid wall, I'm guessing I have to ensure the pipes are the correct distance apart. I guess theres no standard for that... :(

I've just been browsing though a brochure full of bathroom stuff trying to decide on a mixer shower. I think the brochure is Oasis Bathrooms. I cant believe the prices of the 'designer' mixer showers. Well expensive! :shock: Some of them look quite good. Lots of different makes as well...

Get a super steel bath. Should be stronger.

Thanks Dave. Useful info. Seems to make sense. Just hope my plumber will do that. I'll ask him.

Theres a knock at the door. I think I'm being taken in for that comment. What is the world coming to.

Thanks taff. At the moment though, if you're running a cold tap and someone flushes the loo, there is a big drop in flow of the tap. If I'm showering with the new unvented system, I presume in this case there will be a drop in pressure with the shower? Can this somehow be aleviated? Can...

I have one bathroom and one kitchen. The current hot water pipe to the bathroom is 22mm. It splits to the kitchen at 15mm. Cold water to bathroom and kitchen are both 15mm. My question is when I get my unvented hot water cylinder installed, I obviously need a 22mm cold to the cylinder...

Just researching what bath to buy. I'm thinking of a shower bath, or one that is wider at one end where shower is. I want a bath that wont flex when I get in (12 stone!), is 8mm better than 5mm?

Evening all, I have a friend whose Vokera Linea combi boiler is playing up tonight. Symptoms are no hot water. Central heating is ok. I know nothing about Combi boilers, I presume something has gone internally? Pressure is all ok. Any help much appreciated, Andy