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Just fit a complete new float valve.

Close every other rads TRV,don't touch their lock shield valves,run heating and see if the non working rad now heats up.

As above ,you will likely need to extend the pipework. A TRV with a union fitting ,rather than the compression fitting yours has, may allow you to fit it without amending pipework.

Just turn the black handle ,the pressure gauge next to it should register the pressure. If the boiler error message doesn't clear and the boiler start to function,you would need to use the dial to reset.

Show us a picture of your new TRV ,it may be a straightforward swap.

Show us a pic of the other end of the silver Flexi pipe/ what it connects to. It is very likely your filling loop.

Some of the copper conductors are sticking out from the terminals ,there should be no visible copper. The red wire is hanging out of its terminal. You shouldn't unscrew the switch plate from the mounting box with the power on either !

Push the seal back into the boss ,see if it is then watertight/ free of leakage. If it is the white waste pipe needs support to prevent it from pulling outward from the boss.

Somebody has, there are new and old versions of the wiring colours present.

Engage an electrician,your existing wiring shows a black wire connected to an earth terminal and needs investigating by somebody qualified.

You need to establish exactly where the leak stems from. Is it the union that connects the valve to the rad,or the valve to the supply pipe,or is it from the valve body ?

Time to call in a plumber ,your pump may not be circulating water.

Is the pump spinning ,is its body exceptionally hot ?

Are all upstairs radiators heating up fully ,or only warming ?

That is a hot water cylinder. I assume you have a programmer that allows for the boiler to heat the water in the cylinder and / or the central heating ,set that for central heating only.

Set every radiators lock shield to the mid position and open all their TRV's. Give them 15 minutes ,then tell us which have heated and which have not . Do you have a hot water cylinder that is heated by the boiler ?

Then the rad must start to heat now ?

Set the lock shield to it's mid position ( half way between fully clockwise and anticlockwise) see if that rad now heats up.

You don't need either PTFE tape or jointing compound on a compression fittings olive. Having said that, using compound wouldn't do any harm.

Not certain ,but pretty sure they can separate and O ring seal makes watertight joint between them.