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@JobAndKnock is spot on. That level of damage with no signs of repair is absolutely not acceptable. Withhold all payment and get the boss round. If he's the boss, google the cost on making up the glazing and offer him that plus 20%.

If you don't think the work is finished (dents, nails protruding etc), or done to a reasonable standard (sealant missing) don't pay. If you're broadly happy with the job but think there's remedial work to be done, pay half the bill and explain what you'd like done to complete payment. Or hold...

By law, every local authority runs a garage that does just MOTs, not remedials. This is how they maintain their fleet. They also have to open the testing site to the public. No doubt the garage will be in some inconvenient location, but it's there. And they don't publicise it of course.

Main issue I have with EICRs is the tester finds a "fault" then quotes to fix it

So long as the fitter put sealant between the frame, glass and beading, it will be ok. If they didn't, expect rain to be driven through as some point. Use a nail punch and hammer the raised heads in. Just be more patient than your ham fisted fitter.

And what are those different jobs, properties and applications?

What's the difference between silicon and frame sealants?

I hope someone can educate me. I want to seal the gap between brickwork and a new UPVC frame. (Previous frame was wooden and sealed with something that's hardened over the years.) Frame sealant: Matt and overpaintable Silicon sealant: Shiny and can't easily be painted Must be more of a...

You may be thinking about it the wrong way round. Most window sellers don't manufacture, they out source and fit. They are easy to spot as they have sales teams, want to visit you, and will suddenly offer out a discount towards month end when they have targets to hit. I'd go so far to say they...

I'm planning to replace a wooden back door with a composite and I'm thinking about dimensions and positioning, My current plan is to fix the new frame (~70mm thick) to the outer brick skin (100mm) as I have a better chance of finding a firm fixing. I'll seal the frame to masonry gap with...

I'm guessing the porch has windows? If so, open the trickle vents? Or have trickle vents fitted? Or if you have a suspended timber floor, put a floor vent in? Or in the ceiling if there's a void above it? Principle being that you are not breaching the heating envelope of the house more than it...

The answer is yes but a lot depends on your own skills, or carpenter's. I built a three leaf door set about 10 years ago. In those days they were awful contraptions with a lower guide rail which ruined the continuity of the floor. I used three off the shelf doors and some bifold door hardware...

Well past tense. Job done now

Yep, solvent weld. The elbow above it is solvent weld. I know I have 43mm pipe and pipe cement so just need to source couplings.

Ok ... so I need a 43mm solvent weld coupling since the push fit stuff is 40mm

Basin waste has started dripping so I stripped it down cursing the bodge of the previous repairer. The 43mmOD vertical waste pipe is ~20mm too short so it pulls on the side outlet from the trap. To get a good seal, I need to extend the 43mm pipe. I have some 43mm pipe so I was thinking of...

Add to your to do list, checking the pump. When the heating has just started and the system is relatively cold, unscrew the big silver cap on the head of the pump. When the heating's running, the pump will get quite hot, so it saves you juggling a 80C chunk of metal. You may get a bit of water...

Ok, those are bidirectional valves, so we can eliminate clumsie fitting.

No, not really. There are other things to worry about. CO poisoning, unsafe electrical wiring, air quality, asbestos etc etc. The solder joints work by heating the copper until the solder melts. In it's liquid state, it is wicked between the copper surfaces to seal the joint. Very little solder...

Building on @DP ... 1) take the plastic cap off the valve body. Check if there is water leaking out where the spindle comes out. If there is, try tightening the nut (1/8th turn) that the spindle goes through. There's a rubber washer in there that perishes over time. 2) try tightening the nut...