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Heating and hot water are independent with hot water on demand

Thank @DP you're slowly converting me to fitting a thermostat .... and putting it somewhere it won't be noticed.

Looks like a metal lamp to me, so wouldn't that need to be earthed?

And it needs to be earthed.

Have you checked the cable for markings and codes as @conny suggested? You might see something like 6943X which is the specification and easy to look up. @chivers67 is probably correct.

If the cables aren't cooked by overloading, you'll be fine. If they aren't exposed to sunlight, you'll be fine. If the EICR says it's ok, believe it. Of course, if you start pulling higher currents, plugging in more things, allowing mice to have a nibble ... What you may want to think about...

But if the room was at 30C, why would I put the heating on? Ok, I sort of get your point; the TRVs are water temperature dependant, not room temperature, so the rads will put out heat for a bit even if the room is up to temperature. Any suggestions where to put a thermostat? Main lounge, log...

And my heating system doesn't have a thermostat. All rads have TRVs except for the bathroom since there's no ABV in the system. Rooms seem to come up to temperature, TRVs throttle back, boiler goes off for a bit. At some point the boiler pixie decides something is cool enough, and the heating...

Sounds like a gimmick to me. Sure a device can pick up a forecast from the net, and that forecast is probably accurate for where the weather station is. My nearest weather recording site is 10 miles away and if the wind comes from the north, we take nearly the full brunt of it as it comes across...

It's a Worcester 35CDi II. And by compensating for weather, I'm not thinking about modulating boiler output. More, if it's cold outside and the period the timer ran wasn't enough to bring the house to temperature, the controller would extend the on time.

I've a 20 year old boiler, no plans to replace it. It's on a timer, TRVs on all rads, and no room stat. I'm toying with changing the controller for something more sophisticated but have no idea what's out there that meets my requirements - everything I've casually come across so far is...

I would tend to agree. However, finding a heating engineer who does the analysis and arithmatic doesn't happen. It's always "this looks like it needs ..." based on their previous experiences. And modern roomstats are wireless so can't be fitted in the right place. The occupants just wonder...

I read the instruction leaflet. There's no mention of "off" for the new controller.

For the sake of argument, assume I've fitted a roomstat in my lounge. Heating comes on in the morning, and by 9am, the roomstat turned off the boiler. The lounge has a large SW facing window and doesn't tend to loose heat particularly quickly. at 10am I go to my study in the NE corner. It has...

Again, I'm not reading anything that tells me why a room stat has any benefit.

I don't have concerns, just curiosity triggered from replacing the boiler in my mother's house which has a ridiculously over complicated roomstat controller (but that's possibly a different thread). I don't think the pump runs constantly while the timer is "on" but I might check later. In any...

Well there's no ABV built into my boiler. Also, when there's a call for hot water, the central heating pauses until the hot water isn't needed. It's very little impact on the overall state of warmth. The Scottish equivalent is Part J

It sort of makes sense, but that would rely on a pipe of stagnant water to radiate enough energy for the temperature to drop sufficiently. Ok if the boiler is in a cool garage or attic I suppose. I wonder if any heating engineers have an authoritative answer?

Our house has a modulating combi boiler feeding multiple rads. Each rad has a TRV except for the bathroom one and there's no ABV or roomstat. The boiler and radiators seem to have been installed about 2004, before we moved in, and do the job. My question is, what triggers my boiler to fire up...

Yes, thought as much. The existing cable from wall exit point to fitting is grey T&E but there's nothing I can do about that.