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It will be accessible so something like this > https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CHOC30A.html As you'll have stranded and solid core

The lights don't look heavy though and the hook is secured well to the wall.

I would just plaster over the conduit & junction box and leave the "slit" so the wires are still accessible and it's hidden by the wall light. Looks a bit of a bodge but a good bodge & the fitting is earthed.

Yes I looked at all circuits with Limitation on all IR testing, one could at least lower to 250v and do some kind of test on some circuits. With regards to the sockets they should be able to be switched off and End to end resistances have been taken so not sure why no IR.

Could be a right pain in the arse to move it depending on how the cable comes up, might not reach without replacing one part of the ring - if it is a ring.

Maybe Quinetic could be the answer https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Quinetic/index.html

Get an LED Baton and as Pete says extend off the existing light it's an easy enough job. One thing I'd also do is staple some Silver Radiator Heat reflector foil near the top of the Rafters as this reflects light where you want it..

Not much a few things but I'm surprised you got an Electrician willing to "Pass" that in 2020. It's a flat by the looks of the title of the JPEG and the fact it only has 4 circuits. They're not labelled for starters the fuse cover is missing which should have those details but sockets should...

No, is there an RCD unit that protects the installation anywhere?

Yes speak to your neighbours and see if they actually have a vented extractor, you'd expect that in new builds these days! You might be able to see if other houses have vents.

Can you get some plaster board or plywood and cut a hole in it the size of the hole that's there? Place a piece of wooden batten across the inside with a few inches either side of the hole bridging it and fix this with a screw each side and then screw the circular piece of plaster board/plywood...

How did you work that out? A damp cloth was used to clean the fan.

I use a Hioki at work to test the battery impedance(s). If the batteries are over 7.5mohm we replace them as they can't always produce enough current for the UPS to run for very long.

Yes I think Wylex you have to toggle completely to the off position & re-energise.

What's happening with the box top left? It's a plaster board back box with nowhere to go? Personally I join conductors separately into wagos and tuck them out the way protected with some card board. The screw was no doubt touching a live conductor and now it has been removed the insulation...

We'll probably need one though I was hoping to just buy some software to draw up the plans. Think I know a bloke who lives round the corner though. Thanks for the replies. (y)

Hi, We're thinking of having a small porch built with planning permission. It's just over a meter from the Hedge boundary line, it's a semi detached. Our next door adjoining neighbour's house is set back/staggered so the porch will probably be 3 meters from their front wall. Anyone think this...

Yes, if you read my post I stated you need to use a deeper one the 51mm aren't suitable. I'm fully aware what KO stands for the Wiska's are threaded.

I'd also use a piranha nut to secure the SWA and link the Earths rather than a banjo & strap. A stuffing gland for the T&E I would also opt for a Wiska as it has knockouts making it very easy to use. A slightly deeper box helps get the SWA fixed too

Better to have a small holes drilled rather than notch the top of joists so the cable is less likely to be damaged by someone hammering a nail into a floorboard.