Search results

It's not ideal to have every circuit protected by One RCD if this is the case here, the board looks plastic but when it was installed probably completely compliant. Looks like the installers have taken good care from the labelling etc...

You can put two sizes in hole saws so anyone could fit a 70mm as a pilot and whatever size your new lights would be if the Collingwood weren't available or suitable. skip to 1.50 the other method is to use a bit of cut 70mm circular wood.

I've used E spares in the past and they do tend to be quick service / dispatch wise.

There will be some available in April with TLC Electrical but if you want a GU10 > https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Lighting_Menu_Index/Lighting_Downlights_Index/Fire_Rated_Downlights_Gu/index.html JCC are pretty good.

Thought they were spade connectors on their elements. I could be wrong

I also had a failed unit in my Kitchen, I did install them in 2017 though so just got a new unit. Most of the time it worked fine but occasionally flashed like a strobe.

I have a 2018 PDF, a colleague gave me a copy.

This is rather odd, is that a stud wall? Where is the nearest power in relation to the wires? I would have though they should all be able to be connected together on one power source/switch Why hasn't the electrician wired them into a junction box of some description and just left them dangling...

I did have a Double USB socket that lasted about 6 months, I have replaced it and it's been ok for over three years now.

So the RCD on the right actually trips out? Have you any areas where equipment could be wet? Needs an insulation resistance test on the conductors with everything Unplugged and disconnected.

If it's that old can you still purchase a suitable RCD or RCBO?

I'd certainly not dismiss another electricians Testing if the results look ok, some things are very personal in terms of C2/C3. Though I'd want to delve into an installation to fathom what requires updating/replacing/improving but I wouldn't bullshit someone by saying something was in the Regs...

I used some anti condensation paint on the walls of our bathroom Perma protect. The wall is warmer to touch & we get less condensation as a result.

Yes it's fine as on a B16

No, the fuse is to protect the wiring not the appliance.

The only way to distinguish which is the feed is to test it with a volt stick or similar. If the switch is pressed off the one that stays live is the power supply, I can't see what purpose the Red strap is providing, maybe someone else can.

Judging by the charring on the blue cable the Neutral on that circuit looks like it was loose too. I always prefer Crabtree isolators, they look a bit big though.

Has the circuit you're going to work on got RCD protection? Are you going to supply a permanent live to the fan for an overrun / humidity sensor?

In my line of work in Highway maintenance I often see Voltages in excess of 250 Volts. They do tend to be in rural areas fed via poles. occasionally when too high I have to report it as some equipment are effected by the upper tolerance

Needs a photo