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So I generate small volumes of trade waste, boiler parts, packaging and the usual junk that goes with the territory for being a boiler man. Have used HippoWaste bags for the last few years, a pallet with wheels sits on my drive with a bag on and every few weeks I drag it over to the van and...

As per Rhinosaw. Good to go, just have a towel ready.

I suppose the question is, are you in the market for a new boiler? It can be repaired, just an o-ring. But the labour might be high on it depending on who you use.

If you have lockshield and wheel-heads that isolate up ok, then you can take the rad off and decorate to your hearts content without anything. If you have TRVs then I’d advise a decorators cap (These would have come with the original TRV, but if you can identify the TRV, flea bay is a good...

I’m not sure what you mean by a “new boiler type fault” - if it’s a 105e, it’s definitely not a new boiler and yes, it definitely needs looking at. Can I advise that you do not use the appliance until that front seal has been replaced and checked by a RGI. THIS IS NOT A DIY REPAIR IMO.

If it is semi permanent, you’ll want Stop Ends, compression will go directly on the pipe where the valves were. If it is permanent and you are doing this under the floor you will want Stop Ends in soldered form (You can use push fit, but i wouldn’t do it in my home). If it is for decoration...

Why can I just hear the name Kevin Mitnick when you describe this. :D

Thanks John - I will give it a go tomorrow after work... This thing is driving me mad... Why are the horn components so bleedin hard to get to? I had to clean the washer pot out last year - Another god awful job. Ours is due for a service so want to get this fixed before going into BMW to save...

Nope, if you mean the one under the bonnet, that starts at Fuse 18... Is there another box on the inside of the cab that is eluding me? The fuse diagram just shows a picture of the vehicle on the ramps which is no use to me at all. Thanks - I thought there was 2 horns on this model (High & Low...

2014 Series 1 (F20) BMW, 116D, 5 Door Sport... Hi, our horn has packed up, looking at the wiring diagram the fuse location is not obvious.... Has anyone got any diagnosis tips before I have to pop the front bumper off and go hunting with a multimeter?

Sorry. Going back to the original post, why don’t you just use evoHome? You get the TRVs and multiple zoning options with relay boxes? If you want to plug it into other systems, just run it with homebridge.io - we have Nest with Tado TRVs and use HomeBridge to connect it all to the rest of the...

British Gas/Hive will not stop the thermostat working in the new address. You are 100% right that the thermostat and receiver are dumb, they just have a comms channel to talk to the hub as well to receive additional commands. I have installed 2nd Hive Units and a quick factory reset and...

Looked up just for you https://community.hivehome.com/s/article/If-I-buy-Hive-products-and-then-move-home-what-should-I-do They tell you to leave the Thermostat, Receiver and Signal Boosters but “take your hub and other Hive components” - this is simply a health and safety issue, they don’t...

Sorry to disappoint, I don’t have Hive, although I fit it for people and have experienced the “fun” customer support to get them to update stuff, but it’s part of GDPR, they have to ensure your personal details are correct and they don’t really have a choice.

Yes. It will work. You may just need to give them a call to update the address.

No contract = no deposit. Move on and find someone else. GasSafeRegister will not get involved with financial disputes. It’s just a safety registration and even that can be debatable. TrustATrader = Your choice. For tradesmen it is a source of work. Some are good, some are bleeding awful...

Are you sure that on the other side where the wires connect there are not x2 nuts? If you look at the new element (Presuming it is the right one) - Do you have screw holes or x2 bolts pressed into the mounting point?

That's fair enough... To be honest, I will always balance convenience over the cost... I suppose if you are looking for 100% economy, then yes, switch off a couple of minutes before the showering ends, just make sure you don't need to run too many sinks of hot water off during the day and that...

As JohnD said - Which I have presumed (Maybe wrongly)... That you have bled rads and checked and double checked to make sure there is water in header tank. If the system is gravity: Point A will get very hot (Whatever temperature the boiler is set to Point B will get warm Boiler will start to...

So I am looking at this and seeing gravity hot water... Thus, a good bit of heat in the boiler should get the hot water going again... Although the top vent connection has been poorly configured and the pipework is somewhat undersized for gravity - So may need some coaxing to get the process...