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yes

like doesnt work. i assume you mean this?

you can join the cable at the pull switch and extend to light switch. if using terminal block it must be accessable. if you want to plaster over, youll have to either solder or crimp (using proper ratchet crimp tool, not squeeze-n-hope tool)

it was best for him to put him to sleep. they could try drugs for the kidneys, but he didnt have a chance with the tumor. wasnt fair keeping him alive, expecially since he doesnt eat so doesnt have any energy. all he's done is sit in/next to the bath

his kidneys are failing and he has a tumor. :cry:

actually, no.... altho i do have a thing that tells me the tread depth

thanx for the support. will keep you updated

whilst were on about tread depeths, could manufactures not have a red band in the tyre so you can see when its worn down to 1.6mm? no excuse for people to drive round with illegal tyres.

aslong as you know what your doing, and its gettin checked out by LABC. re-wiring is not for beginners. there is quite a bit you need to know. we cant tell you everything, but you should at least get the OSG (if you dont already have it)

whilst i dont recommend neons much, and would rather test using a contact tester, what happens if both neutral and earth are dead for some reason. neon doesnt require them to show a voltage, but a tester does and this can be fatal

adding a light in a loft is not notifiable what your really suposed to do, is hang light, dangle flex dangerously from light, set so it falls from loft as you open it and then plug it in. avoids part P (if you need to...)

it is for DIY, BUT changing a CU is something not recommended for DIYers, unless experianced and have a good knowledge of regs and are able to test the installation

BUT if the hob switch has a socket that could be reasonable expected to have something outdoors plugged in (via extension etc) then it should be RCD protected

because TN(c)S has a lower ELI than TT and there can be a lot higher current flowing, so 6mm isnt adequate if there is a dead short near the service head

sounds like you had an intermediate switch. how was it originally wired? are there 3 switches operating the light? or did the switch control 2 lights? iis your new switch the same? pics would be useful

water is an insulator. its the ****e in the water that conducts....

hes gettin loads of attention etc, but there is nothin that will please him. he'd rather sit in the bath with some water.... but he doesnt seem to want to drink it. must be awful for him, must be tired and weak by now. no food for 2 days, very little for the last week, cant get him to eat...

he's gettin worse. he hasnt ate for over 2 days, he doesnt seem to be able to stand anymore. he gets somewhere and then sits down. touch him an he sometimes loses balance. definatly not looking good.

quick update (better late than never): been to vets. has a mouth infection, but he says he doubts thats the cause. but he also found a lump in his intestines goin to the vets again on tuesday but i doubt he will be coming back... he doesnt eat anymore and is rapidly loosing weight :cry:

start adding new cables etc. leave old stuff alone for now. wire a light circuit and temp wire into old board for a while. last day is usually no power whilst CU is changed. if possible, we never leave them without lights. sockets we sometimes have tto leave off, but we do give them a temp...