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I'd wondered if the extra space they recommend is to deal with the potential cold bridge that's formed if plaster is fitted straight to the cheek of the rafter. If I clad the cheeks in, say, 25mm PIR backed plasterboard then in my situation I'd overlap the frame too much.

The joists are at 600 centres and ~45mm thick, so only 5mm unfortunately.

Am I asking for trouble trying to fit a Velux with only 5mm wiggle room? The fitting guides say that I should have 40-60mm clearance. Is this to meet thermal regs or so that the fitter has some discretion with where the tiles are cut? Thanks

Yep, I can move a bag 20 metres in 45 minutes. I've done it so much I've started timing it. About ten barrows per bag.

I'd put it on ebay for £1. Someone will have it for something or other. Likewise the ally glazing bars will get taken away if you leave them at the end of the drive etc.

Thanks. Yep I'm using trays at the eaves. I'd not got as far as thinking about the intersection between verge and eaves, so I'll give that some though next. As you say, I have tray/membrane/undercloak all intersecting.

Can you elaborate on that a bit. Do you mean staple it to the top of the fascia board?

Hi, when running membrane into/over a verge, am I correct in running it under the cement board (over rafter top) then tucking it down behind fascia board? Thanks!

I think you need to be in the territory of extending your mortgage to fund major house extensions for that to be relevant, and that's only on the premise that your current LTV would put the lender at a risk level that they're not happy with.

Something about density requirements?

Thanks, I think that's what I'll do then. Upstand against the batten and then leave any extra lapped down into the valley to sit under the grp, without fixing for obvious reasons as you say.

Not sure I follow. The rafters are below the level of all battens. Valley boards are set in between the rafters so the tops of the boards are flush with the top of the rafters. I could run the roof membrane under the side battens, over them, or over them *and* over the sides of the grp...

The grp valley has a lip on each edge so the valley side battens definitely need to go down first.

On my current job I also asked for 20 x 4m boards to throw on the inside floor joists so that I could work from inside. It's made life much easier. I should have asked for a pulley too, but have been muddling along climbing ladders with buckets of mud.

Hi, I'm just fitting a filon dry GRP valley, and am seeing conflicting advice re: the detail on the membrane. The main run of membrane that runs along the valley under the GRP is obvious. The question is how to lap in the runs that come in from the main roof. In the schematic below, which is...

Just noticed it's retrospective so you probably don't care. The longer the better in fact!

Can you afford the timescale cost... It can be a major consideration for some people if they just want to get on with things. It was 9 to 12 months in a lot of places and that was pre-covid.

I was thinking in terms of not removing any element of the roof at all, but jack up the rear of the roof with acros, then add a row of blocks (or some equivalent wooden structure that can be clad later) to give you more pitch. I can't tell from the photo if the shed is rendered all round and...

The felt shouldn't really be part of the equation until a tile fails, but as you say, wrong pitch. Have it considered jacking up the roof to raise the pitch? Whether that's practical will depend how it was all constructed.