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It's possible. There are parts of the house that are frog down but I can normally feel it on the drill when you hit the frog.

I'm using m12 120mm through-bolts to bolt 50mm timber to a wall. Around 1 in 5 don't seem to grab and will just pull back out as I tighten up the bolt. Is there a knack? I always aim to avoid the frog or any bed/perp, and being careful to try not to punch through the back of the brick but...

That would give you the equivalent of a balance valve on the tank and therefore ability to establish if there's another problem with the rads such as blocked microbore, but you know ultimately you'll still need to fit some form of independent control like a separate pump or motor valve.

Can you take a picture of this, and you may get some better advice of quick practical ways to 'JFDI' as you say. Based on your description I can't quite comprehend how badly it must have been set out...

As a part time diy'er that does an extension every other year , my experience is that local authorities and technology don't mix well. For both building control and PP I've frequently had people say to me on the phone "oh I wouldn't use that, we only download it every couple of weeks, just...

Nailer it is then!

Yep that's it. I take it you don't make/measure each of your nogs individually effectively so you're doing the opposite to me and putting your hangers in 5mm off here and there, then cutting all your noggins at a standard size and twisting them back in tension against the hangers? I'm probably...

They're mostly straight (maybe 5mm out at most) with the odd one being 10 or 15mm perhaps. I'll noggin as I go along otherwise the hangers will be installed out of plumb, so ramming them all in at the end doesn't work for me unless I'm missing something?

Would using ring shanks help?

I'm fitting some 220mm floor joists and associated wooden noggins, and wondering if it's best practice to use a framing nailer with 90mm nails for this. The reason I ask is that in some cases I might want to use the noggins to pull out a twist in the joist, for which I'd normally use 100mm #5...

This is the crux of most planning matters to me. Do you talk to your neighbours much? are they reasonable? are you reasonable? Would you be embarrassed to show them your plans over next Sunday's BBQ?

I wish I had friends like yours.

Having said that, last night I was wondering about going back to a ledger plate and using timber jiffy hangers but I'm not convinced the thermalites would take the through-bolts very well.

Thanks.

I'd convinced myself that hangers would be easier, plus modern standards to avoid gaps and drafts etc. Also, my span is 4.74 so nicely suits a 4.8M joist. Building in I'd require 4.9M.

I'm just about to set out a batch of hangers identical to those below. Although the bottoms are 45mm as required, they come out of the box on a slight splay meaning the tops are anywhere between 50 and 60mm. Being so springy, closing them up to 45mm and getting them to stay there is easier...

What were the soil conditions as you progressed down through your 2M hole? When did you hit clay or anything firm? I wouldn't fancy standing in a 2M deep trench for any length of time...

I don't know the answer to your question re the goalpost frame, but that's the kind of compromise that you'll be staring at every moring over your frosties. If it was me I'd find a way of using steel posts even if you have to dig out metre cubed post foundations.

I prefer your approach if it means I wouldn't have to put the hangers on first. Requires way too much planning, far too stressful.