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Thanks for providing that, my width is about the same and the front of pan to wall is about the same too! The layout is pretty much the same as well but I will have a door into the utility which you have on the right, then from the utility a door into the toilet.

Cheers for the reply fellas. Will take a closer picture at floor level. When you refer to pressure build up, the main soil stack has a vent above the normal house roof, the soil stack I'm referring to is vented through a EDPM type flat roof. It looks like this soil stack uses the same pipework...

Thanks for replying. Hopefully that will be OK then! Other than that I could put toilet on the lengthways wall and sink on wide wall. I'm not keen on the sink wc like that, wasn't to avoid that if possible.

Thanks for replying, how would the washing machine and dishwasher connect if I was using this? They can't connect to the other main stack it's too far. Also how do you deal with the flat roof where the vent pops through?

I am creating a new cloakroom/utility which will have a wide 1000mm toilet sink combo vanity unit. The room has width on its side but length it does not as there will need to be a stud wall created to separate cloakroom and utility. To make everything work there needs to be about 20 inches of...

I have a soil stack in an single story extension that is in addition to the main one for the house. I believe the main stack uses the same run of pipe to get to the drain. It was originally serving a toilet, sink from kitchen. Just just the sink until new kitchen fitted then sink and dishwasher...

Good idea Bodd and thanks for suggesting but I have all the pipework and conduit for 15mm pipe, plus fittings! seems a waste to not use them now. BTW what is the standard depth to bury supply pipework in conduit in concrete?

OK I guess it will need to be boxed in either way or could run behind skirting. Just trying to think of where to pop them up. Guess it doesn't overly matter.

I am creating a utility & cloakroom off my dining room. The flooring in my dining room has to come up (parquet) and I want to bury two 15mm JG supply pipes to carry hot and cold to the cloakroom, then a cold through to the utility room area. The other end of the supply pipes will be chased into...

It is broke though :D It's the wrong height, I cant lay tile or LVT over it. Also the floor on the dining room extension and kitchen is different. Plus the floor has been damaged in several places.

Yeah one of the options if ply, then self leveller. But if it's going up 50mm for instance, using 18mm ply still leaves 32mm of self leveller, which is very expensive on a 3m x 3m floor.

Fair comment to make, I have read that perhaps adding a SBR slurry mix to the bitumen, then screeding in sand/cement can solve that issue. I was thinking of bringing the level up quite a bit by using this, then just self leveller above.

Rather than going down the plywood route, can I not just use sand and cement screed where the parquet has been removed, then self leveller over that?

LOL, there is a guy on there that has the same name and is a carpenter. Thought it may be you!

Thanks so much, apologies for all the questions. What might seen obvious to you is not to me! :D Just out of curiosity are you the chap that does a podcast on tiktok?

That's what I guessed, how many screws per board would be sufficient for a concrete sub floor?

OK, so you would use what thickness of plywood over the bitumen? How do you affix to the subfloor? Then can you self level over the ply?

Ahh I see, hopefully that is the case then. The stuff I have down definately has a sticky tar like bitumen. I originally removed some from the hallway but it was a ballache and messy. Just out of curiosity why would you not screed then self leveller over the top rather than plywood?

Great that's £500 odd wasted! I'm really surprised I missed this as I usually do lots of investigation first before beginning any work. How long until the trouble begins? i.e. blocks start to lift. Should it happen quickly as the flooring has been down for over a year with no issues. It's the...

Picture of tiles above. Why can't you lay LVT over parquet? I have done in my lounge and its fine. It's the click stuff not stick down. It's a 60s house. The sub floor is concrete. Think the bitumen that's used to stick may act as a DPM?