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Fantastic!

Pictures don't seem to be working for me on PC or phone. If it was me I'd prop it well in the area. Cut the beam into 3 with an angle grinder. Remove the middle. Cut the nuts/bolts with the grinder at the top and bottom Add new steel. Might be hard to use existing holes so maybe new ones...

What about the gap?

try googling aluminium extrusion angle

could try clamping it first to see if it pulls tight, then screw once closed up by the clamp.

In my local area I know of a few people who have had to use an agricultural business tie to the land in order to build a house. E.G if you need to live on site where your livestock/business is, to offer security to vulnerable animals or machinery. But in these cases they have had static caravans...

Excellent update! Like myself you seem to be very critical of yourself - don't be! you're doing a grand job and I'm sure tradesmen wouldn't be achieving the level of quality you are.

James, I am interested to know the company you have used if possible as I will require the same set up myself in the not to distant future. Thanks

If there is any movement between the joint of the bb and pb it could loosen the tiles so I would make sure the tile is on a full piece of backer board and the joint is an inch or so above. how thick is the plaster board? wickes do a 10mm or 12mm board. I think either would be suitable.

the gap is to big to gobb up with tile adhesive.

Backer board for sure. I'd probably go a bit higher than the finished tile hight so the joint isn't on the edge of the tiles. Then you'll be able to feather the joint in with plaster of filler

That’s smart! Always hard to imagine something until you see it.

I used plasterboard adhesive when using the backer board in my fire place. screwed and plugged it to the wall first though, took it down to slap on some adhesive liberally, then screwed it back on using the screws to level it off as I went. worked very well. its clad in Indian sandstone now and...

the way the old bricks are cut at the top suggests its had an arch in there at some point.

That timber structure certainly is not structural to the roof. It looks like a 'modern' addition. The way your roof is made you'll see the big beefy beams running both sides of your roof length ways - they are the structural integrity of the roof. The discolouration of the insulation is years...

I would plug and screw battens to the end of the exposed bricks, packing them out to make level. Then screw pb over the top. Or just apply plenty of big lumps of gobbo pb adhesive, then board. If you use battens then you will have a solid surface to fix the pb to on the corner for the...

hollowing out the oak could cause it to warp if there is moisture in the beam, especially if its above heat from the range. Are you planning on plastering over the brick work? if so some metal straps/brackets screwed to the back of the beam using brass screws, then fastened to the brick work...

excellent progress. your block work looks very tidy! looking forward to seeing the costs as you have some big steels in there and I would like to know what I am likely to pay when it comes to my own extension. Keep it up!

This dormer conversion cost my wife's friend around £55k with builders in doing the work. We are east Yorkshire so one of the cheaper parts of the country. https://newplanningaccess.eastriding.gov.uk/newplanningaccess/applicationDetails.do?activeTab=documents&keyVal=Q6M6E5BJ0TC00

Manageable sized sheets would be my preferred choice. Depends which way your joists run as to how many. Like above, pipes will be easier to route. And the backer board sheets aren’t that big so will be loads of joins in them anyway. Just screw the ply down good and proper and forget about it...