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Perhaps bite the bullet and glue PIR-insulated plasterboard on it, though it will be about 32+mm thick (it has its own integral vapour barrier). (A bit late now but too many SEs specify box section for these fabricated beams, whereas an open I-section beam is easier to pack insulation into and...

Nothing wrong with your proposal. In fact it will help to tie the gable back to your new floor structure, enhancing lateral stability. Any weight you put on the new floor will hardly impact on the existing beam. The wall looks soundly-built in 9" solid brickwork - some in that position are only...

Someone slamming the gate? Short one brick x one brick piers are never very stable, you can't rely on the mortar adhesion (such as it is) when subject to repeated horizontal force. Don't know the cost of repair, but if you just get it re-built or re-mortared, it will fail again.

Doesn't look like anything particularly serious - maybe a too-short bearing of the lintel over the window putting additional stress on the edge of the brickwork. It would be better if you could show a pic from further back so that we could see the context.

125 x 65 or 150 x 75.

RHS is unnecessarly expensive for that sort of loading - a channel '[' section would be just as effective and cheaper. Timber is also perfectly OK, depending on what maximum deflection you can put up with; 2 or possibly 3 piece of C24 screwed together, depending on the load. It's not just the...

Past experience. If its a conventional roof, half the distance up to the first purlin won't be much. The critical factor here would be deflection under live load, though that could be reduced by using a thicker guage.

If it was well-screwed to the timber to avoid twisting, I reckon a 120 x 120 angle could span 3m or so. Its only holding part of a ceiling and half the roof up to the purlin. {assuming its not a truss-roof).

Use a steel angle directly under the wall plate.

Cutting a hole one brick wide x two bricks high at the base would not affect the wall. Just drill the mortar joints out instead of hacking it away

Depends how big your cat flap needs to be.

Whichever system it is, it looks a darn-sight more substantial than skimpy modern timber trusses.

The only sure way is to show a plan - it needs to show all ground floor walls.

Would that not cause problems with damp rising from the ground (assumng it has no dpc, which it shouldn't) or does the coating let it breathe?

can you post a plan of the house? Eg from Rightmove, with address etc removed. When considering wind load, the SE should consider the ground floor as a whole, rather than an isolated part.

The lateral load issue is concerned with wind load on the outer wall of the house. Has he done any calcs to justify this 600 mm wall, or has he just pulled the figure out of his back passage - I suspect the latter? If lateral stabilty is an issue - and in 9 cases out of 10 it isn't - there are...

Do you really believe he'll be"overloaded" or "stressed"doing a steel beam calc? Or is it a subtle play on words?

Frankly, this is complete nonsense. The load at each end of the beam is only 21.6 kN. If you've got normal brickwork, a 215 x 100 padstone on each skin would be more than adequate. In fact, if you had a 150 bearing length, and the brickwork was ordinary commons, you wouldn't need a padstone at...

Has the se told you what the actual loading is on the beams, and why it is absolutely, unquestionably imperative that the padstone bridges the cavity?? He should at least explain to you why. 2.2m is a very short span and its hard to see how such a span could be loaded - in a domestic setting -...

Why do the majority of SEs bolt the beams together? Its a waste of time and money and pointless.