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And if the builder had a contract saying they could remove all materials would you pay them extra to leave the scrap. They may have worked the scrap value into their price to you.

Not all work in a conservation area requires planning. You can see this on the government planning portal http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/permission/responsibilities/planningpermission/permitted Or even better read through the GPDO that describes exactley what can be done as permitted...

I'm no expert in this however this is what I have learned. There are 2 things you can't do in a conservation area without consent: 1) Demolition 2) Works to trees. Other than that, normal permitted development rights would apply. These may have been removed by an "article 4" restriction...

Having just gone through the planning process for new windows in a conservation area I'd be interested to see where about's you are? Do you know if there is an "article 4" restriction for this particular area?

1987.

Thanks Tony. That's good to hear.

Guys, Thanks for the all the advice. Just wanted to let you know that I've done the work and all went well thanks to the advice from here. Worked from above and cut strips out of the chipboard using a circular saw and multitool I had borrowed. Lights re-positioned, tested and working fine...

As per the title, I think I have a cracked lintel and I'm not sure if its a problem. Yesterday we had an open fire with a stone cladding around it. Today I've taken off all the stone cladding around our fireplace and taken out the pre-cast concrete fire back in preparation for a new...

Of course. Good point. Was thinking about drilling/notching joists and forgot I couldn't work from below like that. Makes the decision easy. Since I will need a series of holes in the chipboard i may as well cut a strip out and then secure it back in with noggins. Easier that a series of...

Picture as requested. And yes, the entire alarm can be shut off using the switch above. Pointless.

If I go for the hole saw option and work from above, how do I pass the ceiling joists? From below I can continue to cut out the plasterboard where needed and then notch/drill the joists to thread the cable. From above I'd need a series of holes in the floor? I can't see a way bring a spade...

So my conclusion now is that I should work from above rather than struggle from below and risk potential death by asbestos and rather than buy a hole cutter, I should use the multi-tool that I currently have borrowed from a friend or my circular saw set to the correct depth. Thanks!

Photo's to follow, of course. Thanks.

When we recently moved house we became the proud owners of a vintage (hard wired) alarm system. There are no instruction manuals at all and I've been on the manufacture's (Tate) website and can't find anything - I've not actually called them yet. My guess is its as old as the house which was...

And I get to buy another piece of kit, which will make the boss very happy. lol.

True. I'll think about this. It certainly is far easier working from above.

I thought I'd be OK on that front since the white stuff in artex was banned in 1985 and the house was built in 1987. Was it not that clear-cut?

More valid points Owain. Thanks. We're fortunate that our neighbors' house is a mirror image of our own so we have an idea what the lights will look like as they already have the alcoves lit. There is also a central pendent light in the room. If we want things bright we would use the main...

Hadn't even considered that I may want individual switches on the lights. Good point. Will cutting out the T&G be easier than working from below given I'm over-boarding the ceiling anyway? I'd seen these cutters for my trend router but the drill mounted ones look far more cost effective...

Thanks Iggifer. You do understand me correctly. Good to know both options would work. I'm not keen on 3 as I'd like to keep chasing to a minimum. Right now we're skimming the ceiling and maybe the backs of the alcoves. Option 3 would means work on a separate much larger wall which I'd like...