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Nice thanks - assume the dots are the mid point on that 180 sweep so they can go 90 degrees either way?

Thanks, so when you say they only turn 180degrees you mean after 180 then they just start going back to their original position effect? Should I turn the compression screw or the ones in the side of the hinge or a combination? Should I be able to line it up with only the bottom hinge or is it...

My front door has ended up with a small gap at the bottom opposite the hinge side. It appears to be a butt-style hinge from Googling a bit. It looks like the bottom hinge has drifted out of alignment of the middle and top hinges creating this gap. I've mucked about but really have no idea what...

Hello knowledgeable folks. I have an issue that occurred about a year ago and has come up again. I have a Santon Premier Indirect Unvented heating cylinder and when the heating system is running there appears to be water discharge from the tundish. This is not a constant discharge, because...

I appreciate the candid replies, I realize there are a lot of dodgy knock-offs. Dong Lian is a fairly well respected brand in China however, and it complies to their national standards. Whilst not as rigorous as our own, they are still considered "safe". Some of the ones I have do have a proper...

I appreciate that they may not be the best quality but do consider that the majority of electronics is made in or around China and just imported. If I can firmly attach the ground wire to the casing then that should do the job, I suppose am earth tag or screw would work in that case. If the...

I have some LED light fixtures that were bought from China. They are generally all metal with a plastic shroud to cover up the guts of the fitting. Inside they have an LED transformer. I've wired a few up and they work perfectly, but the issue is that they have no attachment for the ground...

Just had the plumber in, apparently there was some construction debris in the pipe just under the kitchen sink (where I assume the mains comes in). Changed it out and it seems that the pressure is restored but does make me wonder if there's any more floating around the system...

Yeah, it seems to be getting worse as each day passes actually (by worse, I mean the cold water pressure seems to be dropping). The kitchen sink cold water tap however seems to get full pressure, but all the upstairs bathroom taps are almost a trickle now.

Thanks, will give this a shot. They are still building new houses around the area so maybe something has happened with the mains supply to the area.

Madrab, that's correct it's a sealed CH system. I wasn't aware that the expansion vessel only supplied pressure to the rads. Is there any way for an amateur like myself to check the pressures of the cold mains or is that something a bit more technical?

Okay, here is where my ignorance shines through - the 1.5 bar I'm referring to is a small pressure gauge close to the pressurized cylinder near the hot water tank - so I had assumed this was the pressure applied to the whole HW system. The hot water does not have the same pulsing as the shower...

I've just moved into a new build house that has a sealed system installed. Pump broke after two weeks but was replaced (Grundfos, can't remember the model at the moment). Everything was fine initially, but recently the taps and showers in the house have visibly lost throughput - water still...

Thanks for the help guys. Successfully put the new TRV on with no leakages so far. Got round the already-compressed pipe by putting on some PTFE tape and jointing compound to try and bulk up the compressed area a bit. Seems to have worked a charm.

Would a bit of PTFE tape around the compressed bit the thr the pipe do thr job? I know its not ideal but if it would work....

I'm in the middle of replacing a bust TRV with a new one (essentially a like-for-like replacement). The valves are standard 15mm but the house piping is 10mm. I have a 15-10mm reducer and had to saw off the old one (as you can see in the photo below). My question on the new pipe reducer is...