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I do hold MET1 but siting your CCN1 means you are competent to remove the gas meter to carry out pipework. This is why as part of the assessment you have to demonstrate this in the pipework element. ( I own an assessment centre and IV for others ).

Should be.. Try opening one of the downstairs taps and try to suck the air out I have seen that work.. Always worth a try.

If it's combined open vent cold feed do not fit the ball fix valve as it is then possible to shut off the open vent..

I agree and my point is without the relavent experience they would be hard pressed to prove they were competent.

Unless they held an appropriate plumbing qualification and could prove they have up to 70 days auditable work working with gas alongside a registered Corgi Engineer they would not be able to sit the ACS exams..

Think you will find with that model you need to press the red button in light the pilot with a match and hold the button in for a further 30 secs

In which case get somebody in who does...

Do it carefully or you will be replacing the cylinder !!! Always worth a try turning the boiler stat up to max and running HW only to see if that shifts the air lock. There is another method I use but would not recommend it to a DIYer on an internet forum :)

Only if they hold ACS quals will they be allowed to work on the gas side. An electrician does not have to be CORGI registered don't believe all you read from some people on internet forums who never admit they are wrong. An electrician only has to be competent. He has to be a member of a...

The point is you are only CORGI registered whilst working for your employer who pays to be a member of the HSE's representative. It shouldn't make any difference to how you work it is just law that you must be a member to work on gas etc

Whilst being competent he would still be contravening the Gas Safety Regs by not being a member of a class of persons recognised by the HSE (CORGI for the time being). The point is anybody competent is unlikely to get caught and prosecuted.

Leave well alone don't just change the H/E for the sake of it, it's a big lump of cast, not much to go wrong.. You will do more harm than good to things like gaskets and flue seals if you are not careful you will wreck your existing boiler.

I meant regulation 2 point 23 in the guidance note found on page 14 of the Gas safety regs 1998. Apologies for the error but as I am sure you appreciate non gas carrying parts can still be safety related ie stats, APS, thermocouples etc

The Gas Safety (Installation & Use) Regulations 1998, Reg. 2 (23) states: 'The definition of "work in relation to a gas fitting" lists specific activities covered by this term, but this list is not exclusive and other operations may also comprise "work". The definition is wide-ranging and...

I wish Tesco's etc worked on that principle. :) I only add a small amount but then again if I go to a job and don't rectify on the first visit I do not charge for that visit, Only charge when job is complete. Do you charge for your time if you go to a merchant to collect materials etc ?

What would you consider a reasonable mark up? bearing in mind it has probably had to have been collected etc. By the way I don't mark things up by 100% but do add a % on to cover my time etc.

If a DIY job is done by the book there would be no problems, but what happens if the job is done wrong. Now with water a lot of mess to the DIYers home but thats about it. Now if the job is gas think what the implications could be. YOUR family might be living in the house attached or your kids...

Not sure but do not think BG would take such an old boiler on cover.

what makes you think it's the PCB not very often they fail on these boilers, get it serviced, it probably is a dirty pilot injector. It is a CORGI job, checking the seals properly is more than a visual check..

How long since the boiler was serviced by a RGI ? The safety issue of your boiler is I believe the fact they are a positive pressure room sealed boiler and need to be checked to ensure they are well sealed.