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Good thought, but Just checked, they have used 2.5mm cheers

Hi, Got a 20A mcb radial circuit which used to power a stair lift, I’m going to get rid of that, extend the cable and have one double socket, it’ll power just a lamp and general low current things, should I downgrade it to a 16A or is 20A fine? it’ll be clipped to wall and go through a wall at...

Hmm not a bad idea! Didn’t no they existed I shall look into them!

No I meant with the aesthetic look of a real metal face plate switch

Yeah hell of a bodge, but just goes to show there is demand for double insulated switch’s Ah yeah there’s definatky better bodging methods then the tape haha

Ah right! Feel like there’s a bit of a gap in the market there though, I was speaking to someone down the pub who had the exact same problem as me but instead of switching back to plastic he basically lined the inside of the metal switch with insulating tape and switched to plastic screws

Why Doesn’t it seem to be a thing where metal face plate switch’s are double insulated? Feel like you could easily line the inside of the switch with a non conductive material (toggle switch on one I’ve brought has a plastic toggle on it anyway)

I believe it’s all electrically sound, got it all tested before I brought and got all the certificates etc

Late 60s I think, most of the wiring has been updated except the socket ring main and the lighting, but the lighting circuit is two core and a separate earth so I assume earth wires were added at a later date

No metal conduct, just wires in the wall and old colours, red,black and yellow/green at light and red and a black at switch

Recently brought a new house, fitted new ceiling lights and they had an earth connections (possibly fitted after the original wiring was?) I’ve just fitted metal light switch’s however there’s no earth connection there, just 2 core wire (definitely nothing else up the insulation) they should be...

RESOLVED the external stopcock had failed, waterboard replaced it

RESOLVED bad earth was the culprit, managed to repair the broken lead by crimping and soldering an ring terminal and then bolted onto engine. Fires up great now. Thanks for all your help guys

UPDATE: tracked all the earth strap wires and managed to find a broken cable going to under the starter motor area( maybe gear box area?) the copper has snapped away from the crimped connection, I temporarily connected it back up and she fired up for a brief moment! problem I have now is I’ve...

Thanks! I got it to turn over slightly but not enough to start it up

Okay I tried that and I got it turn over slightly! But One cough and that’s it

Don’t think so?

Okay, with battery hooked up as normal I have 12V from large terminal to battery negative and from small terminal to battery neg I get 10V? With battery neg discounted I get 12v from both big and small terminals to bat neg Could it be some sort of incomplete circuit? I don’t understand if the...

Okay, with battery hooked up as normal I have 12V from large terminal to battery negative and from small terminal to battery neg I get 10V? With battery neg discounted I get 12v from both big and small terminals to bat neg Could it be some sort of incomplete circuit? I don’t understand if the...