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Clio won’t start

C

Chris_909

Joined
27 Jan 2025
Messages
63
Reaction score
5
Country
United Kingdom
Renault Clio
1.2 petrol mk3
2008

Tried to start the other day, but nothing, ignition all works, no clicking tho
Checked battery and obvious things and all fine, managed to bump start and determined it was the starter motor
Swapped it today but still doing the exact same thing!
Relays seem to click when ignition is turned
Something different from the you tube tutorials I’m experiencing is that I get 12V from the battery negative to the starter motor solenoid signal ignition terminal when the keys out of car? The battery positive has continuity to the VE (other terminal on starter motor)
Anyone got any ideas? It’s a brand new starter motor.
 
That’s what I’m thinking but its brand new?, it’s a star line one

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Alec_t said:
Faulty starter solenoid?
Click to expand...

Original motor, and new motor, both with the same symptoms - seems unlikely.

There are two terminals on the motor solenoid - The large terminal, and a small one. Measuring, with a meter, between earth/engine/battery -ve terminal, and the large terminal, there should be 12 to 13 volts. Between earth, as above, and the small terminal, there should be zero volts, until....

If you get someone to turn the ignition on, and to the cranking position - then you should see 12v appear, but only while the key is turned.

If you do not see that 12v, then you have a deeper problem, such as the inhibitor system, perhaps..

Assuming inhibitor - does anything on the dash change, if you wrap kitchen cooking foil, around the fob part of the key, and try to then use the key? Basically, does the dash indicate some sort of fault, should you try to use the key, covered with the cooking foil?
 
Last edited:
Harry Bloomfield said:
Original motor, and new motor, both with the same symptoms - seems unlikely.

There are two terminals on the motor solenoid - The large terminal, and a small one. Measuring, with a meter, between earth/engine/battery -ve terminal, and the large terminal, there should be 12 to 13 volts. Between earth, as above, and the small terminal, there should be zero volts, until....

If you get someone to turn the ignition on, and to the cranking position - then you should see 12v appear, but only while the key is turned.

If you do not see that 12v, then you have a deeper problem, such as the inhibitor system, perhaps..

Assuming inhibitor - does anything on the dash change, if you wrap kitchen cooking foil, around the fob part of the key, and try to then use the key? Basically, does the dash indicate some sort of fault, should you try to use the key, covered with the cooking foil?
Click to expand...
Have you got 2 keys ?

Might sound daft but try the other 1.
 
Okay, with battery hooked up as normal I have 12V from large terminal to battery negative and from small terminal to battery neg I get 10V?
With battery neg discounted I get 12v from both big and small terminals to bat neg
Could it be some sort of incomplete circuit? I don’t understand if the starter motor is getting voltage why i os it not on constantly

I tried the kitchen foil thing and the security led flashed constantly?
 
Harry Bloomfield said:
Original motor, and new motor, both with the same symptoms - seems unlikely.

There are two terminals on the motor solenoid - The large terminal, and a small one. Measuring, with a meter, between earth/engine/battery -ve terminal, and the large terminal, there should be 12 to 13 volts. Between earth, as above, and the small terminal, there should be zero volts, until....

If you get someone to turn the ignition on, and to the cranking position - then you should see 12v appear, but only while the key is turned.

If you do not see that 12v, then you have a deeper problem, such as the inhibitor system, perhaps..

Assuming inhibitor - does anything on the dash change, if you wrap kitchen cooking foil, around the fob part of the key, and try to then use the key? Basically, does the dash indicate some sort of fault, should you try to use the key, covered with the cooking foil?
Click to expand...

Harry Bloomfield said:
Original motor, and new motor, both with the same symptoms - seems unlikely.

There are two terminals on the motor solenoid - The large terminal, and a small one. Measuring, with a meter, between earth/engine/battery -ve terminal, and the large terminal, there should be 12 to 13 volts. Between earth, as above, and the small terminal, there should be zero volts, until....

If you get someone to turn the ignition on, and to the cranking position - then you should see 12v appear, but only while the key is turned.

If you do not see that 12v, then you have a deeper problem, such as the inhibitor system, perhaps..

Assuming inhibitor - does anything on the dash change, if you wrap kitchen cooking foil, around the fob part of the key, and try to then use the key? Basically, does the dash indicate some sort of fault, should you try to use the key, covered with the cooking foil?
Click to expand...
Okay, with battery hooked up as normal I have 12V from large terminal to battery negative and from small terminal to battery neg I get 10V?
With battery neg discounted I get 12v from both big and small terminals to bat neg
Could it be some sort of incomplete circuit? I don’t understand if the starter motor is getting voltage why i os it not on constantly

I tried the kitchen foil thing and the security led flashed constantly?
 
This is very, very cheap for a starter motor.....I have to wonder, what sort of ‘reconditioning ‘ has taken place here?
John
 
Chris_909 said:
Okay, with battery hooked up as normal I have 12V from large terminal to battery negative and from small terminal to battery neg I get 10V?
With battery neg discounted I get 12v from both big and small terminals to bat neg
Could it be some sort of incomplete circuit? I don’t understand if the starter motor is getting voltage why i os it not on constantly
Click to expand...

Sorry, your explanation is not making much sense... Is the 10v, there all of the time, or just when the key is turned to crank?

Chris_909 said:
I tried the kitchen foil thing and the security led flashed constantly?
Click to expand...

You have confirmed, it is NOT the inhibitor, causing the problem.
 
Harry Bloomfield said:
Sorry, your explanation is not making much sense... Is the 10v, there all of the time, or just when the key is turned to crank?

Sorry I’ll try again,
there is constant voltage from the small terminal to battery negative, when the battery is hooked up in the car it reads 10V, when I disconnect the negative terminal on the battery (positive terminal still connected to the battery) it reads 12V? When I turn the key to crank nothing really changes,

It’s like the starter motor is getting voltage constantly but not firing up but like you said two having the same fault is unlikely?
Click to expand...
 
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