My LDV Convoy Ford 2.4 had a problem with the dual mass flywheel and filled the starter motor with metal dust. The DMF is now sorted and I stripped and cleaned the starter motor. It would now start the engine but the starter seemed lethargic and would not spin as fast as normal. After a few days it was too feeble to turn over the engine fast enough to start. I stripped it again, thinking some more metal powder had got in from somewhere but it was found to still be very clean inside. I put it back on the van and again it was just about starting the engine for a couple of days but then it got too slow again. I can't strip the solenoid as it's a sealed unit but I'm now wondering if the contacts inside that are burnt due to the earlier overloading when it was seized with the metal dust. I'm wondering if it would be possible to bypass the switch part of the solenoid and fit the old fashioned bulkhead mounted solenoid as used on inertia starter motors? If access was better I would try starting it with a jump lead directly from the battery to the starter but there is too much other stuff in the way.
Starter Motor Poorly
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Did you clean the gaps between the commutator segments? If you have metal dust in them it will cause a short circuit between them, also the brush holders, the brushes could be sticking. If the motor is turning I wouldn't think the solonoid is faulty. Does it appear to be drawing excessive current? Also check the battery earth connection to the engine/gearbox.
Peter
Peter
I think an exchange starter is really the way to go, but after a starting attempt just feel the battery lead going into the starter if you can....if it feels hot then there could be a connection problem.
John
John
Starter motors only have a finite life, being used on a van it has had a hard time, as suggested previously I think a replacement is due, either a re-conditioned unit or if you can afford it a new starter motor.
Wotan
Wotan
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You may have a voltage drop somewhere in the starter circuit and the starter is not getting full battery voltage?
Check the battery is going over 14volts with the engine running. Clean all battery/earth connections.
If you want to find where the voltage drop is:
With the multimeter on DC 20V range connect it across the solenoid. One lead on the battery connection and the other on the lead going into the starter.
With the starter idle you will have full battery voltage on the meter. When you hit the starter button the meter voltage should drop to Zero, because the contacts inside the solenoid make a perfect contact. If you have a few volts still on the meter, you need a solenoid.
You can use the same technique to check all earth connections and the + lead to the battery.
If when cranking over, you have full battery voltage at the starter side of the solenoid (to earth) and its still lazy, you need a starter (armature short).
Or you overlooked something when cleaning.
All brushes free in the holders? On the older Lucas M50's the brush plate would make a bad connection to earth causing the same lazy problem?
Just keep in mind that most auto electrical shops would just put a new starter on, regardless. So don.t be to hard on yourself it it takes a bit more effort.
Hope this helps
Check the battery is going over 14volts with the engine running. Clean all battery/earth connections.
If you want to find where the voltage drop is:
With the multimeter on DC 20V range connect it across the solenoid. One lead on the battery connection and the other on the lead going into the starter.
With the starter idle you will have full battery voltage on the meter. When you hit the starter button the meter voltage should drop to Zero, because the contacts inside the solenoid make a perfect contact. If you have a few volts still on the meter, you need a solenoid.
You can use the same technique to check all earth connections and the + lead to the battery.
If when cranking over, you have full battery voltage at the starter side of the solenoid (to earth) and its still lazy, you need a starter (armature short).
Or you overlooked something when cleaning.
All brushes free in the holders? On the older Lucas M50's the brush plate would make a bad connection to earth causing the same lazy problem?
Just keep in mind that most auto electrical shops would just put a new starter on, regardless. So don.t be to hard on yourself it it takes a bit more effort.
Hope this helps
The solenoid on a pre-engage starter usually pulls the starter pinion into engagement with the ring gear whilst spinning the starter at low speed, then switches the motor to full power once the pinion is fully engaged.
A separate solenoid as used with an inertia starter will not have the mechanical interlock that maintains that operating sequence, and will probably wreck the starter pinion and ring gear if it works at all.
A separate solenoid as used with an inertia starter will not have the mechanical interlock that maintains that operating sequence, and will probably wreck the starter pinion and ring gear if it works at all.
Thanks, it is not too easy to check things as I usually have to do jobs on my own. I might be able to rig up the meter so I can see it through the windscreen while I turn the key. If it was down to shorted turns in the armature I would expect it to always fail to start but as I say, it works initially when I put the motor on. In the days when a starter motor was about £20 I would not think twice about changing it but here in Hungary I would be looking at £250+ for this one. The commutator and brushes look as good as new and the brush springs are plenty strong enough.
Check these out, I'm sure it wouldn't cost £200 to get it sent.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=ldv+starter+ford+2.4&_sacat=0&_odkw=ldv+starter&_osacat=0
Peter
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=ldv+starter+ford+2.4&_sacat=0&_odkw=ldv+starter&_osacat=0
Peter
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Finally fixed, new solenoid, £19.35 on Ebay + shipping to Hungary. It finally stopped turning the engine completely but was still pushing the gear into mesh. I checked for voltage drop on the battery when the starter load was supposedly being applied and it was only dropping about 0.3 volts. This suggested to me that the solenoid switch was not making contact. Now it is working I will cut up the old solenoid to check the switch contacts.
It finally stopped turning the engine completely but was still pushing the gear into mesh. I checked for voltage drop on the battery when the starter load was supposedly being applied and it was only dropping about 0.3 volts. This suggested to me that the solenoid switch was not making contact. Now it is working I will cut up the old solenoid to check the switch contacts.Sponsored Links
