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how old is your property, and does the manhole service any of your neighbours drains? if it serves more than one property, and the properties are pre-WWII (ish) then the are the responsibility of the local water authority. I found this out after years of having to unblock our drains...

tyurn off all but one radiator (one that isn't working). and see if that suddenly starts working. then switch one at a time on (except the one nearest the boiler) until they are all working. then switch on the last one.

the best thing to do is to ring your local building control / planning office, mine were very helpful when i had questions.

does the heating go off if you turn the stat down? if so swap it.

well i suppose it has passed the ultimate test. my house is still here this morning. :wink: thanks for all your help.

ok, thanks for the advice. one other stupid question.... i have read to test for leaks using wahing up liquid and water, being paranoid about blowing up my house, i would like to check when i have removed the hose that there is no leak. What ratio of fairy liquid to water should i use?

just a thought, and i am a novice, but why not put down a single layer of bricks and then drill into them. best of both worlds!

I spoke to a corgi engineer this morning to ask him to come out and disconnect my cooker. He advised that i would probably be a bayonet fitting and so i could disconnect it myself, and call him after i have the new kitchen units in to fix in the new hob. But after researching on this site i...

do a serach, loads of posts. the search facility is screwy, but if you type +plastic +pushfit it will come up with plenty of bedtime reading.

ok i've done a search and found out what you are talking about, :wink: where do i get one from? what is the full name i should look for?

i have just done this job as my first bit of plumbing. and it was easier than i expected. I used compression fittings, and flexible pipes to the taps so the parts were more expensive than using solder joints etc (but inly about £10 dearer). took about 6 trips to screwfix though. everytime...

send the kids up there (after they have finished sweeping the chimney) :lol:

i am moving my dishwasher whilst fitting a new kitchen. The dishwasher is about 2m from the external wall, and the only existing pipework is about 50cm off the ground (the old sink outlet). our new units are full depth so have no (very little) void behind them. So i guess i need to run...

would that be just standard cement and browning plaster?

i have just had a chemical DPC on an internal wall (i know i have now read the posts :evil: ) but what do i do before replastering the now bare brick. how long before i plaster? and what type of plaster should i use?

i would use a waterproof tile backing board. hardibacker or aquapanel are the two big companies. search for these names in the forum. they are about £11 for a 6ft by 3ft sheet. but i guess you will pay nearly that for a sheet of ply.

cheers, what would you recommend? ps i am a novice.

ps if anyone can tell me the correct names for these bits that would also be appreciated - or better still the screwfix part number :wink:

i am currently refitting my kitchen and want to move the sink to the other side of the room next to where the washing machine currently is. The washing machine has two feeds, 1 hot 1 cold although the washing machine only uses the cold. these feeds are 13mm pipes, but then have taps with...

after stripping a campervan both inside and out with nitromors i found the most useful tool was a metal pan scrub. the ones that look like a scrunched up ball of metal string. more flexible than a scraper and doesn't clog up as easily as wirewool. you will need a couple of packs.