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Hi folks We have the below hinges fitted to doors on a property in Spain - do these hinges look adjustable to you as the doors seem to have dropped but there's no sign the hinges have moved where they're attached to the door or frame? Hinge2 by Chud posted 22 Oct 2019 at 12:59 PM Hinge1 by Chud...

Better to have a gearbox failure with the door open rather than locked! With the door open... remove the screw that holds the lock cylinder in place - try the key and see if it can lock Take the cylinder out, check it will turn with the key etc. - if yes then... remove the handles and spindle...

If it's a painted or stained door it's worth checking the condition of the finish - it could be that water is penetrating through a scratch/crack and causing the wood to swell.

https://www.thedailymash.co.uk/news/science-technology/electrician-in-awe-of-last-electricians-work-20161007114965

I tend to go for wooden cocktail/tooth picks instead but dip them in some pva wood glue first.

Worth checking Lockpickinglawyer on youtube before you actually shell out - there's a lot of padlocks that are supposedly secure but have significant flaws.

OK - it's a pretty straightforward fix for a locksmith but may be diy'able, it depends if it's a fault with the lock cylinder itself or the gearbox in the door. If it's the cylinder you can try snapping the lock if you can get to both sides of the door (also check for any stars on the cylinder...

Can you not glue the chip back into it - you could maybe use UV cured resin such as is used to repair windscreen chips then gently sand back with fine wet and dry (or diamond stone) - you can then buff up with lapping paste etc.

It wasn't Handy Andy was it? Still makes me ROFL seeing the faces when that happened on Changing Rooms...

I've got one of those and as far as these things go it 'does' seem to work most of the time - the stud function and deep functions are the least reliable but the metal and current detection features work pretty reliably - when trying to locate studs I normally use the stud function, then the...

If you already have the door then it'll be a non-starter - for it to work both sides the door would need a hole through it and the door will be tempered which means you cannot cut or drill it. The only way you could do this I can think of is with a magnetic lock and an RFID type reader (that...

Gorilla glue is good but the way it can run (dribble) and foams up would probably see me use a PU based construction adhesive instead.

Dremel's are rotating multi tools (basically mini die grinders) They're known sometimes as 'get out of s*** kit' as they normally get pulled out when something else has gone a bit wrong. :-D

heat the screw with the tip of a soldering iron, keep reapplying it to get the whole length of the screw hot then gently try unscrewing it with any bit that can get purchase on it - if you can get it poking out a bit use grips on the head.

Think you'd be better off hiring a rotary floor scrubber with some abrasive pads etc.

Osmo is what I've used - I use the light bangkirai oil 2 coats and then a coat of the anti-slip decking oil.

Cut it as close to the ground as you can and drill into the stump with as wide a drill bit as you can to make a hollow - fill said hollow with concentrated weedkiller and cover it with some plastic wrapped tightly over the stump.

I agree with Foxhole - having been through this last year look for extraction rates and dB levels - we got this, it works very well and it's very quiet (on setting 1 we need to leave the extractor light on otherwise we forget it's on as you really struggle to hear it). I know it's probably no...

If you've got two people and two pairs of steps or platforms then you should be able to lift them out without too much trouble. One thing I'd really recommend is getting a sprayer of some sort (even if it's just one like this...

Just to clarify are you talking about screwing into the end grain (through the stringer) or from the underside of the treads through a support welded to the stringer?