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mp75 ,bit rough m8! hardwall an skim as above!

over cills cost pennies,you can go over the old as long as its sound,if you hack off you need to upgrade the insulation by regs,all the systems you mentioned are more or less the same,you need to find a good spread who works with poly/resin morters regular to get a good job,they will all fail if...

youve pva.d , w/p and wet down ,that top coat should be running down the wall m8!!.are you getting enough on, 8 to 10 mm should give you time to work,bung some pva in the mix,up to 5ltr per 50kg of cement(no other chemicals!)the beauty of that is you can use lime,or use a retarder,if that dont...

building sand?

or you could try the old trick of not using waterpoofter,saturate the wall the day before and damp down before you top ,i now it may sound old fashioned but trust me it will work :) edit to say.this way the water comes back thru the render,stops it drying out untill the sets done,which id give...

tell you what ive got for getting the dinks out,remember the peace of steel your grandad used to use to sharpen the knives up,dont recall the name but it works a treat :)

do what!!!a grand for a poxy box room,your having your pants pulled down m8. :shock:

jebus!! how bigs your van addict??

o dear w/p =no grip ,old story,if your gonna stop the suction make sure you have a a strong mechanical bond ,ie a deep scratch,after all thats all thats holding the two coats together! :)

hammer test it mate,get a claw hammer and put the nose on the wall,now move the hammer across the wall in a circular motion keeping it prest against the wall,listen and you will hear when its hollow,same as wozza but a bit quicker,then you can see how bad it is and decide for yourself

yes m8,things down our way are moving from monocuche and dashing to thin coat systems and acrilic/silicon textures,with the textures you really have to trowel hard to make any yards, lots of pressure and it just buckles them up :cry edit to say,sadly there are no skills required ,just a maul...

i used to cherish trowels when i plastered rc,but the work i do now is very unforgiving,my main trowel(14inch)may last 3 months and my second(18inch may last 6 just throwawys really.

well there was only one in the place rc but it was butchered on the front,shame really as ive had some good tyzak in the past .

i shopped for new steel a few weeks ago and put my hands on a tyzak but put it back ,no corners on the front ,wtf is that all about,if you got no corners how do you expect to make one? marshaltown 14/5 is the dogs off the shelf imho!

as above,if the joists not were you want the light just put a nogin between the joists were you want it .

as above,if its not floated its not a float coat,get that backing straight and the rest is simple,simples :)

if the holes are deep mix up a semi dry sbr mix ,sbr slurry the hole,put your marigolds on and fill with your hands and finish with a pointer,let set then two 8 to 10mm coats,you can scratch the day after the dubbing out but i like to leave them 5 days before i top.

thats the highest thanks per post rate on the site,your already a superstar :D

1. Do I need to do several coats as she only wants a very rough finish. ?

several coats maybe five to many!is it a single skin,is the brickwork water/damp damaged,your first coat needs to be a bit weaker than the substrate then the next a little weaker still,a picture paints a thousand words so post one up me old china plate :)