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That is what I thought also. The original installer of the CU is also to "blame", since it should have been obvious that, in the future, a "Door-Opener" may be installed. In addition, is there not a "regulation" in the UK which stipulates that a CU must not be installed above a certain height...

Check for voltage - or lack of it - between all three socket connections. Since you appear to be able to use a meter, with the "power" and switch ON, you should read 230 V (or so) between Line and Neutral AND Line and Earth. Zero voltage (or almost Zero) between Neutral and Earth.

Interesting comment. However, it is only by "convention" that Switches" are used on most UK Socket-Outlets - where they are not REQUIRED - (please correct me if I am wrong in this) BUT such Switches are REQUIRED in Australia and New Zealand. As far as I am aware, such Switches are NOT...

You seem to be using the wrong "quote" to make some sort of "jocular" criticism. Black insulated and White insulated are the Line and Neutral conductor's insulation (respectively) used in North America!

How did you "test" it? A non-contact Voltage-Tester may give you a false indication. Test only with a Low Impedance Voltmeter between Neutral and Earth - and Neutral an Line.

I do wonder how any "Induction Motor", (which operates via the Magnetic Field provided from the Supply) could generate any Voltage - while "spinning down" - without the "Magnetic Field" - which was provided only from the "Current Supplied". An "Induction Motor" contains no "Permanent Magnet"...

Before I go any further, I apologize to you - and others - for being "critical" of one who (so far) has only five Posts on this topic. (At least one "jocular" comment already has been posted.) It is almost certain that the "appliance" has/had an internal fault (Short-Circuit) which caused an...

While I do not know the "source" of the existing (rusty) "Light Fitting", you (and others) should be aware that the North American "convention" is for the Line Conductor to be insulated Black (or [infrequently]] Red) and the Neutral Conductor to be insulated White. Many "foreign" products...

Regulations in North America NOW require that a Neutral connection to be "available" at each lighting Switch Point, in case a Neutral connection at that point is ever required in the future for any new Device - such as some "Intelligent" Dimmers. It my be that the original installer was aware...

As I wrote, in Post #13 :- "The single (Black) conductor "Cable" seems to go nowhere (except to a Loop terminal on the Switch) and does nothing !?!?! One wonders, who wired this up in this manner - and why?" It serves no purpose, as it is. It is connected to the Loop terminal at the Switch and...

Diagram of changes required is attached. I apologize that my printer is having a "problem" and the printout was somewhat blurred.

NOT as in either Post #14 or #15 . In BOTH cases that is switching the Neutral ! The correct connections were given in Post #13. (connect the single (Red) conductor "Cable" (at the ceiling) to the fitting's Line conductor, (Brown) connect the Neutral (Black) conductor of the incoming Line...

Just tested my vacuum cleaner. At switch-off the motor spins for about 5 seconds, which is hardly enough time to bend down and extract the plug - let alone getting to feel the pins 1

If you are "concerned" about drawing too much current, after each "use", immediately withdraw the plug of any "high-current" device and feel if either or both the Line and Neutral pins are appreciably warm They will be "somewhat" warm, but it should not be excessive. If they are equally mildly...

That "part" seems to be a 12 V Power Supply for 20 W to 60 W Halogen lamps. (At least, that is what is written on it - although you (annoyingly) posted the photo sideway!.) Is that Power Supply supplying all three sensor lights? If so (and only two have failed) it is unlikely to be that Power...

Why do you post pictures "upside down"? It may not be a "Current Transformer" but it is an existing transformer. (Presumably, the new [non halogen] luminaire !) The label on the nameplate of this indicates that this "device" has an "Input" of 240 V 50 Hz - hence no transformer is needed...

Presumably, by "PS" you mean a PlayStation console. (Abbreviations should aways be explained - for the benefit if the "ignorant".) A PlayStation Console is just a "box", which needs to sit on a shelf/table/floor, be "powered" and connect to a "display", via a HDMI connection. (Other connecting...

Here is a picture of a typical Bittern Holder and its "connections". https://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/Electrician/images/BattenHolder.gif In this picture, only the two "horizontally pictured" terminals connect to the Bayonet Spring Terminals. The green circled Earth terminal is just...

I find that both amusing and annoying. Our main "Big Box" store sells Twin and Earth 2.5 mm cable by the metre, at $3.02 per metre (https://www.bunnings.com.au/olex-2-5mm-nexans-2-core-and-earth-cable-1m_p4430080?srsltid=AfmBOoowP9sZyQFO1TRQky8jqS1MUnKjJvPzpIbzCBbYPE9zx0GIMn5G ) However, they...

Photos 2 and 3 appear to show that you have one cable with 4 conductors, two Red one Black and one Green/Yellow plus a cable with a single Black (Neutral) conductor. (Please confirm or correct.) The terminal diagonally opposite the Black (Neutral) bayonet contact pin conductor's terminal will be...