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My brother in law called me as the real electrician in the family was nursing a hangover. He'd been replacing a faulty outside light (with the MCB off) and thinks he gave the cable a bit of a tug where it came through the wall and one of the RCD's tripped (wylex dual RCD board). It wasn't the...

It's approaching 20 years old, my engineer is old school and fixes them - he's replaced the hydraulic blocks on both sides, the flow turbine and countless other plastic parts in it over the past 4 years - I reckon 7 -10 repairs. This week he's replaced a small plastic angled pipe that had a...

My man has condemned the old WB Junior in my rental property and he's "too old to fit boilers" Looking at the online box slingers around the £1,800 mark for a budget 24kw (little house, electric shower) with flush, stat and mag filter. Need a 5 year warranty as I'm flogging within that...

Just hang a few 3x2's from those (almost) vertical truss sections at whatever height suits you and board.

Done.

My brother in law has just bought this place near Aberdeen, I don't know the measurements but it was a struggle for me - I thought it would have been better if they'd put the velux above it - my head would have fitted in and a good opportunity to take in the nice view!

Yes, that was my initial thought but presumably quite hefty to resist bending - but if a strap is good enough I've just raided my scrap metal collection and found this - 5mm thick and galvanised. I think the roofers will recognise it.

No HETAS involved - being done under building regs.

Sorry. It was clear in my mind! It's twinwall for a wood burner. Pretty much like this Excuse my "drawing skills": The two braces are supposed to be 60°apart and rise from roof to flue at 45°. The left hand one can go on the hip but the right needs fixing to a rafter in the middle of...

Personally I'd have a rethink.

Get them to put the downpipe at the end of the building.

Best way to attach the braces? The left side I'll drill a hole in the hip tile and stick a packer under and screw through into the rafter. The right hand one should be about 1/3 down from the ridge. Brackets are just little angled things to screw in and instructions are useless.

Knock off some more plaster - if you've already got to the top of the lintel in that picture it ain't supporting a floor in a block of flats. If it's deeper get rid of the coving and see what's going on at the top. I can't see why anyone would sit a 6 feet section of concrete floor on top of a...

We finally have enough radiators in our house (after extension/renovation relying on just a few in the wrong places running at full tilt to keep the house fairly warm) to maintain a nice temperature. What should the boiler be set at? We have a megaflo so I presume there's a minimum (flow...

Thanks. I've got the nosing and the board fits nicely with a bit of underlay scraped off. A few more questions if I may? Do I need expansion gaps at the ends? The stairs are 750mm wide. And what can I do with the bullnose? I think just square it up with a 45° chamfer.

I've sorted it. I had a cunning plan that the bit that goes into the box that I could see had some spec or something faintly printed on it, and it appeared to only be on one of the strands so I just needed to find the same on the bit chased down the door frame. I gave it a bit too much of an...

While fitting the radiator on the right I've drilled through one half of the shotgun cable. I've ordered a repair kit (4 f plugs, 2 barrels and a few m of cable) which will allow me to replace from where I've accessed the cable back to the TV (which lives on the other side of the wall). I'm...

It's moduleo layred click, 6mm with underlay so I'd remove the UL where it fits in or on the nosing. The reason I favour the first one is because the stuff is big tiles (so one per step) rather than planks - so if I used the second type which I guess is designed for click, I don't think I would...

Out of these 2 which would be best? I prefer the first one for a few reasons, but I'm worried that there's nothing restraining the edge - so would the right adhesive glue it down forever?

Over that area, the cheapest no nails will be fine - when used to stick skirting boards on it often brings the plaster off when they're removed. I find it a bit softer than the polymer stuff so easier to squish into place, and to clean up.