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I dont want wireless interlink, I want actual wires, because they work properly and consistently. Running the cables isnt an issue, the layout of the house, multiple loft areas and a large "cellar" means getting cabling to the detectors isnt an issue for almost all of the points. I think only...

If the element has popped, they can often trip the RCD when they go... Given it now turns on, but you have no heat, it might suggest the element has failed?

We've recently moved into a new house, and i would like to sort out the fire alarm situation. Currently there are 7 standalone battery powered detectors placed around the house (lounge, hallway *4, kitchen, utility room). I would also like to add at least two more, one in the boiler room and...

Yeah, i get that sentiment, and i think longer term that will be the plan. Unfortunately the rest of the house is further up the queue and it'll be a few years before we can get to it. However if we could do something in the interim that wasnt too crap but would make the room usable, it would...

Hey folks, We've moved into a new house which has a fairly large conservatory (~6m x 3m). We were hoping to use it as a dining area, but quickly discovered (having never had one before) the huge temperature swings makes it pretty unpleasant. from a bit of reading, it seems insulating the roof...

in the name of DIY, couldnt you just get a standard panel mount "anti-vandal" switch, and hook that up? They're usually stainless and IP rated. Brass versions exist too? EG: https://cpc.farnell.com/unbranded/ab-av-935/anti-vandal-switch-19mm-flat-brass/dp/SW05718 You'd just need to fashion up...

sounds like the socket is just broken... These RCD sockets are kinda nasty anyway. They also designed such that they trip in the event of a power failure, which isnt really ideal. I would fit a standard one and make sure its protected at the supply end, preferably by its own RCBO.

These smart doorbell units are usually a bit funky. In an effort to make it "easy" to install, they often sit in series with the bell itself, in place of the switch. They then draw the power required to run themselves thru the actual bell, and when they need to ring the bell, they have a...

It becomes self-fulfilling at that point though, right? If decent guys always refuse the work, then the work ends up always being done by cowboys...

Finding good trades is next to impossible i find. Many, including yourself i'm sure, will suggest that i take recommendations from people who have had work done. Except, general members of the public arent really up to the job of actually properly surveying work done, and knowing if its done...

Octopus publish the day-ahead figures around 4pm, so you know what tomorrow looks like. This also allows your "smart" charger to figure out the best time to start charging the car as it can poll the API to get that info. The uncertainty is certainly valid. I saw quite a lot of guys on the EV...

Some are. Most arent. Moreover, most cars come with a "dumb" charger that runs on a 13A plug. Whats stopping you just charging with that if the wall box is reporting your use and charging you extra. I suspect road/mileage charging is the only way to fix it, and thats a whole can of worms!

Octopus has a cap of 35p/kwh. Its winter just now, and prices are fairly terrible, but in January my average daily price/kwh was around 15p. The odd day up around 20p. But in November i was seeing some days where the daily average was in the 5-7p range. My average for the whole time it was...

Its also worth pointing out that with big changes like this, theres always going to be winners and losers. If for instance you currently use very little power, but almost all of your use is between 4 and 7pm in the evening peak, then in effect your use is being subsidsed by others during those...

They offer some direct advantage, for instance i had Octopus Agile in the old place, a ToU tariff which varies based on wholesale pricing at 30min intervals. If theres an abundance of power, the rate goes down, even negative sometimes - yep they actually pay you to use electricity... If power is...

Gas is around 3p a kwh. Electric is around 15p. Your economy 7 will have a cheaper night rate, perhaps 10p but probably a more expensive day rate. Gas ofcourse isnt 100% efficient, so electric closes the gap a little there. Also worth remembering those are the coldest three months of the year...

3500kwh total from end of November until now, so about 3 months? That doesnt seem like a "big bill" to me for an all electrically heated place. I use about that amount of electricity and i have gas heating :eek: If you've come from a gas-heated place, bear in mind electric heat is around 3...

Interesting. I picked up a rack mountable IEC C13 PDU to mount behind my AV cabinet at home to supply power to all the various kits of kit in the cabinet. I noticed it was banked in three sets of four, and has some sort of timed relay setup where it brings each bank in a second after the...

Perhaps. I know in our office we had issues with the B32 breakers in the main office and a bunch of PC's. If the power ever went off, the inrush of ~30 PC's would trip the breakers every time. Swapping the B's out for C's fixed it. Cheap supplies might well be missing the inrush limiting...

Or LED power supplies with a bunch of caps in them, perhaps of dubious quality, all sapping a chunk of power at once....