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Also just because you have a combi, doesn't mean you have to USE the hot water heater. It would be quite happy heating a conventional vented cylinder. Don't bother with unvented cylinder as that will again be limited to your mains water pressure & flow rate.

Remember you can't pressurize water, only air. So you would need a pressure rated tank and a pressure vessel. A cheaper (and more legal) approach would be to put a normal open storage tank in the attic, and feed the boiler from that with an automatic 1.5 shower pump run in 22mm.

Not remotely true. Maybe you're thinking of bits of felt from 30 years ago? Technology has moved on since then.

The opposite actually. You can have a flat roof at any height you like! The flat roof can come out just below first floor window level and you'll have hugely high ceilings.

Get rid of that old mouldy chipboard and have the floor properly screeded.

Seems pretty obvious to me? Maximum width is 3.3m and you are at 4.85m. So you will need to make a planning application.

The bricklaying is really the cheapest part of an extension, and the most obvious if you do a cack job. Not worth doing it yourself.

Hi, Finishing off a timber framed garden room. I'm installing a sliding door. Question is what kind of flashing do I need under the door? Is it enough to use flashing tape? Or do I need a metal pan of some kind? Thanks.

Strip of white PVC, siliconed ether side.

It's been tested at the kitchen tap to about 15L/min. Might be Ok for a single shower but we have two. Don't want have to be yelling down the stairs when someone turns on the tap or flushes the loo!

You say that unvented is better than vented + pump, but why?

So, planning some upgrades to our hot water. We currently have an old vented cylinder, loft tank, and pump for both stored hot and cold. Setting aside switching to a combi for now, as we already have the tanks and the pump, it seems like there's no advantage to unvented. In fact there are...

Afternoon, Planning extension, and we will need a soakaway to drain about 80sqm of roof. I got to thinking, if we're digging a great big hole for the soakaway, why not put in a storage tank instead? Does anyone have any experience of this and does anyone how will it be treated by building...

It's single brick width yes, though it's concrete blocks. Thanks for the responses - looks like it's coming down!

Hi, I am going to demolish an outbuilding in my garden: As you can see, it also forms part of the boundary of the garden. I'm going to reuse the concrete slab as a patio base. There is a square brick pier half way along the structure on the inside. My question is can I also keep only the...

You need to have the timber base elevated so there is ventilation underneath, i'd say 10cm is a good target for the space. For mine I just placed the timber on concrete blocks, with a DPC between them. Where the building exceeds the concrete slab, I'd pour a footing of concrete for the block to...

Or just apply for planning and then no need to worry about anything. Such a large building at under 2.5m will have a awkwardly low ceiling if nothing else. Remember for proportion the ceiling height should increase with room size.

Not exactly comfortable, and will be abrasive and leave dust and scratches on clothes/skin. Don't see why you wouldn't use some nice planed and treated timber. Would look much nicer too.

You can do a concrete base, although that's an expensive way to do it compared with a timber base. Are you going to be keeping within permitted development limits on height, or submitting a planning application?

Yes it's proper timber frame. From inside to outside - Plasterboard, VPC membrane, Insulation between studs, OSB sheathing, Tyvek housewrap, timber cladding.