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It may work with the hall thermostat. That does not make any sense. Why have a thermostat downstairs controlling the temperature of rooms' upstairs? This is a programmable thermostat, so it controls both time an temperature. But why have it in the living room if it's supposed to control...

The first thing you need to do is measure the incoming cold water flow rate, at either kitchen cold tap or garden tap. This will tell you the maximum flow rate you will be able to get from a hot water outlet.

You seem to be going about balancing in the right way, though removing the TRV heads will eliminate any chance of them closing and messing things up. You could also try setting all LS valves to 1/4 turn open and checking all rad temperatures. This will tell you which ones need opening a bit and...

Set the pressure to 1 bar when the system is cold. You should be able to balance the system with the pump on speed 2, or even on 1. What balancing procedure are you following, and how are you measuring the rad temperatures?

Is that 1 bar when hot?

OK, so it has a separate pump, possibly a Grundfos and probably near the HW cylinder. Can you confirm the make and model of the pump, and what speed setting it is on?

Which pump do you have?

The Logic Heat 24 is an open vent boiler, which is usually used with a Feed and Expansion tank in the loft. But they can be sealed and pressurised. Are you sure it's not a System boiler?. The Heat version has an external pump; the System has the pump inside the boiler. The boiler is designed...

No, but it is a sign of a possibly incorrectly balanced system. Which boiler do you have (make, model and type (combi, system etc).

Thanks for the good news.:D The pump should now work OK on fixed speed II; III is definitely too high. But it might be worth trying PP speed 2 or even Autoadapt. It would also be a good idea to balance the system, which should be done on fixed speed II with any TRV heads removed. (See attached...

That's a length-of-string type of question. If the system has been properly balanced all rads should heat up at the same rate. It should take about 10 minutes to raise the room teemperature by one degree. Apart from a closed valve, another more likely possibility is an airlock in the system...

I thought the same thing. When you say speed 3, I am assuming you mean the one marked III - the outer of the three fixed speeds - and not one of the two constant or two proportional speeds. Here are the charts for the pump showing (top) the head v flow rate, and (bottom) Watts v flow rate...

Those power ratings suggest that there is no circulation. The BG engineer has turned a valve off and forgotten to turn it on again. Get them back.

It could help, if it shows sufficient info, e.g pipe sizes & lengths and rad outputs.

How is that relevant?

Why? Do you really want to heat all rooms to 23/24C? A room does not heat up any faster if the TRV is set to a high number.

Oh yes it is! Follow the orange line down. In any case, the label says that T2 breaks on rise, so it must be the switched live

Terminal 2 of the old stat is switched live. So it's the blue which has to be connected to A on the new stat. I don't understand why the yellow wire is there - unless there is a cooling system or MOMO (motor on/motor off) valves. If the system still doesn't work, connect the yellow to terminal...

An OT thermostat isn't necessary as the boiler needs to run at a fixed high temperature when HW heating is required. The problem is that you can't have CH and HW running at the same time as they have distinct flow temperature requirements. It's (relatively) simple with a combi boiler as it is...